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  #871  
Old 08-23-2018, 06:44 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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And a small vid showing the cage and new shocks position, and a couple pics of the holes I made in the rear panels to mimic the 1:1 and remove some weight I also added a plate where the rear mounted steering servo was back when I had the cable steering system.

Also I am starting to think I might have to put some paint eventually on that chassis! So in the two pics I cleaned it bit with motor cleaner and MAF cleaner (the two stuff I had at hand). That MAF stuff stinks! I will get some brake cleaner to get rid of the remaining grime with a toothbrush. It is getting harder to work on it, there are some hard to reach areas with the cage now.





Last edited by Frederik : 08-24-2018 at 07:51 AM.
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  #872  
Old 12-22-2018, 10:33 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Just spent a while fixing broken pictures links for quite a few early posts. Most of the important stuff back to early 2014 is now back up. Still missing everything from may 2013 to early 2014 but these were of older designs and not much left of these parts now anyway I'll probably spend more time later to continue the fixin!
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  #873  
Old 12-22-2018, 11:34 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Originally Posted by Frederik View Post
Just spent a while fixing broken pictures links for quite a few early posts. Most of the important stuff back to early 2014 is now back up. Still missing everything from may 2013 to early 2014 but these were of older designs and not much left of these parts now anyway I'll probably spend more time later to continue the fixin!
Hey Fred! Pretty sweet to see the pics coming back up! also hoping that you can get some more free time to continue with the build, itís come so far already!

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  #874  
Old 12-23-2018, 07:47 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Originally Posted by Trini2DBone View Post
Hey Fred! Pretty sweet to see the pics coming back up! also hoping that you can get some more free time to continue with the build, itís come so far already!

Yes I too start to feel like I am getting closer to completion! I am thinking of painting it (the chassis) soon now, only need to make sure I think of everything that involves soldering so I don't have to burn the paint and start over lol! I already bought some white paint for it.

I think I will solder the 4 link boxes to the floor instead of having them bolted. And revise the brackets where I attached the lower rear links to the chassis. Couple things to sort out there.

Now how do I go about cleaning it for paint? It is full of corners with solder flux, gunk and stuff stuck to it. Pretty hard to reach everywhere with a wire brush. Is there a product I could just spray and it would be strong enough to dissolve everything? Except rust I guess I need to really wire brush that off. Of course if such product exist my guess is I need to paint right after it so the metal does not rust right away (tends to happend when there is no more greasy residue on the steel!)

Fred
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  #875  
Old 12-26-2018, 12:38 AM
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Thanks for working on the pics, i'd forgotten how awesome the details of this looked!
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  #876  
Old 12-26-2018, 05:12 AM
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I don't know what you can get locally but look for a product like rustbuster
https://www.bondall.com/ranex-rustbuster/

It's a phosphoric acid rust converter that will basically disolve surface rust as well as convert deeper rust. It will stop oxidizing on bare steel and I believe it can be used as a flux for soldering as well. It may help remove some of the flux residue you have on the metal but not sure on that. To clean grease/gunk off easily, try spray on oven cleaner first (outside and don't breath in lol), then hose off and treat with rustbuster. Wipe off excess and let it dry overnight, coat with a decent epoxy etch primer and it will last a lifetime (more or less .)
Hope that helps. I restore cars for a living and use this kind of thing all the time, metal is metal even when its scaled down (just more awesome)
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  #877  
Old 12-26-2018, 11:19 AM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Thanks for working on the pics, i'd forgotten how awesome the details of this looked!
Thank you frizzen! It was interesting seeing the pics again myself too lol it is now all rusty and ugly but seeing the metal all clean makes me thing it will look nice once painted!

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Originally Posted by 2redrovers View Post
I don't know what you can get locally but look for a product like rustbuster
https://www.bondall.com/ranex-rustbuster/

It's a phosphoric acid rust converter that will basically disolve surface rust as well as convert deeper rust. It will stop oxidizing on bare steel and I believe it can be used as a flux for soldering as well. It may help remove some of the flux residue you have on the metal but not sure on that. To clean grease/gunk off easily, try spray on oven cleaner first (outside and don't breath in lol), then hose off and treat with rustbuster. Wipe off excess and let it dry overnight, coat with a decent epoxy etch primer and it will last a lifetime (more or less .)
Hope that helps. I restore cars for a living and use this kind of thing all the time, metal is metal even when its scaled down (just more awesome)
Thank you buddy this is some awesome expert advice! Could not have hoped for better advice than professional experience.

Maybe something else you could help me, since the metal pieces adjustment is not perfect there are small gaps and cavities here and there, do you know if there is a simple product I could use to build up and make it a bit smoother? Nothing too extreme since this is quite small and I don't want to have a very thick coating, just hide the seams a bit. Thinking of it, maybe I'm better off just adding a couple more coats and better control the build up?

Thanks again for the awesome information!

Fred

Edit: the bundall product does not appear to be available in Canada, but I kept reading automotive restoration threads on some website and found Ospho rust inhibitor is a good product, I'll see if I can find it locally, otherwise I might just order online. I only need a small amount but that will be helpful the day I start doing 1:1 projects

https://www.caswellcanada.ca/OSPH1G.html

Last edited by Frederik : 12-26-2018 at 04:09 PM.
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  #878  
Old 12-26-2018, 07:21 PM
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Yeeeeee! I fixed all the bad photobucket picture links! You should now be able to see all the older stuff, back when it was an aluminum frame and a CC-01 axle, the front disc brakes which I have not installed yet, and the making of the front struts

Hopefully my next post will be an actual update!

Fred
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  #879  
Old 12-26-2018, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Frederik View Post
Thank you frizzen! It was interesting seeing the pics again myself too lol it is now all rusty and ugly but seeing the metal all clean makes me thing it will look nice once painted!



Thank you buddy this is some awesome expert advice! Could not have hoped for better advice than professional experience.

Maybe something else you could help me, since the metal pieces adjustment is not perfect there are small gaps and cavities here and there, do you know if there is a simple product I could use to build up and make it a bit smoother? Nothing too extreme since this is quite small and I don't want to have a very thick coating, just hide the seams a bit. Thinking of it, maybe I'm better off just adding a couple more coats and better control the build up?

Thanks again for the awesome information!

Fred

Edit: the bundall product does not appear to be available in Canada, but I kept reading automotive restoration threads on some website and found Ospho rust inhibitor is a good product, I'll see if I can find it locally, otherwise I might just order online. I only need a small amount but that will be helpful the day I start doing 1:1 projects

https://www.caswellcanada.ca/OSPH1G.html
I'm glad I could help point you in the direction. The acid is phosphoric and apparently can be bought from industrial supplies and possibly livestock supply places (unconfirmed). Automotive paint shops will also have rust removal products like that or evaporust and similar, as well as other types of rust converter & sealer products which can be simply painted on the surface, allow to dry and you're ready to prime/paint. These will have the words converter sealer or converter primer in the name, often brush on like milk before drying to a purple black colour, or spray on clearish and change colour to near black when cured.

If you post a link to a local auto paint supplies with an online catalogue, I'll see if I can find the products for you.

As for the other question there's a couple of things that come to mind, but can you post a photo example of what you're trying to rectify so I can give you the right answer please? I'm sure I can help if I can see what you want to fix up
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  #880  
Old 12-29-2018, 11:13 AM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Originally Posted by 2redrovers View Post
I'm glad I could help point you in the direction. The acid is phosphoric and apparently can be bought from industrial supplies and possibly livestock supply places (unconfirmed). Automotive paint shops will also have rust removal products like that or evaporust and similar, as well as other types of rust converter & sealer products which can be simply painted on the surface, allow to dry and you're ready to prime/paint. These will have the words converter sealer or converter primer in the name, often brush on like milk before drying to a purple black colour, or spray on clearish and change colour to near black when cured.

If you post a link to a local auto paint supplies with an online catalogue, I'll see if I can find the products for you.

As for the other question there's a couple of things that come to mind, but can you post a photo example of what you're trying to rectify so I can give you the right answer please? I'm sure I can help if I can see what you want to fix up
Mostly it is for areas where there was not quite enough solder. Here is a picture of an example, you can see there is a crack where there is not quite enough solder, here where dash area meets the side area:



And another example here where two pieces of the tranny tunnel meet:



One other thing I might add is I don't want to add a filling material that would make it difficult to work the metal again in the future. For instance I might need to solder or braze additional stuff at a later time (for repair or modifications).

Also I was wondering what will be the effect of the rust product with the solder (it is regular plumbing solder, led and tin). Any chance it will dissolve the solder? That'd be a problem


I spent some time trying to figure out how to install the front disc brakes to go with the smaller diameter mini wheels. Here you can see the size of the disc and caliper, and how it does not fit the wheel:






Part of the problem is I need to have the caliber closer to the center, there is some space on the aluminum hub I could grind doww, and also some plastic I could remove from caliper to bring it even closer here are before and after pics:






But that was not enough, I also had to machine down the disc brake diameter, so I put it on the lathe, faced the disc closer to the hex and removed about 1/8" of radius. Pics before and after:





Then I was able to have the wheel fit on, oh and I also had to grind the inside of the spokes on the wheel so it could clear the caliper, and grind the caliper corners too for clearance



Here is how it looks on a larger more opened wheel just for kicks And also to show you how little space the mini wheels have compared to regular on-road wheels:



Still need to figure out a way of permanently attaching the caliber, it is currently held by glue dots... The knuckle is made out of multiple layers of aluminum pieces so I can't simply drill and tap in it.. I will likely glue it with JB Weld, or do another knuckle entirely with a different design. For now I think the JB Weld will do the trick



I have a third brake caliber Trini2dbone gave me when I got the other callipers (thanks Preston! ) so that got me thinking... Since my rear axle is a locked spool, I could install a single caliper on one end, and have 4 wheels disc brakes! That might sound a bit complicated, but it might actually be easier than trying to tune a mix of ESC brakes and 3rd channel servo brake, and the result might be better too. Main concern at the moment will be to have an adjustable setup (be able to tune how much brake each of the 3 calipers will receive) while at the same time keep it scale looking and tidy...

Here the caliper is only mocked up, but I coud simply remove the two existing screws holding the axle housing halves together, and add two new bolts using the caliper holes, to sandwich all that together:




Pretty sure I can't have all the brakes mechanism (servo, horns and 3 cables) tied into the engine bay so I'll try to have the servo in the rear. I'm thinking I could use the short and soft cable that came with the bike brakes for the front wheels so I can bend the cable more, and use the larger yellow cable to run from front to rear... Anyways sorry for all the ramble I'm just thinking out loud here in case you want to follow my reasoning and in case you have ideas that could help too!

Thanks and a happy Holiday all !

Frederik
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  #881  
Old 12-29-2018, 07:07 PM
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Just thinking for symmetry ..how would it go if you mount the rear caliper at the diff nose where the tailshaft input is. This would resemble some of the aftermarket handbrake/e-brake setups available for 1:1. Then you'll still have 4wheel disc brakes but from the outside look like rear drums or dummy discs for appearance.

As for solder, acid shouldn't bother it but to be certain with your particular brand, do a test piece. It should only etch up the surface a little because it only reacts with the iron oxide in rust.

The only thing you could fill those with and still be able to work it later is more solder. Personally, I'd do all construction and addition first, then come back later and fill any gaps with either a flexible seam sealer (caulking, silastick, etc) or with an epoxy putty (the two part knead together type commonly sold to repair leaks in radiator or fuel tanks). Neither of those options would be able to be reworked afterwards although the putty can be used to form parts and drilled/tapped for construction purposes.
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  #882  
Old 01-11-2019, 03:52 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Just thinking for symmetry ..how would it go if you mount the rear caliper at the diff nose where the tailshaft input is. This would resemble some of the aftermarket handbrake/e-brake setups available for 1:1. Then you'll still have 4wheel disc brakes but from the outside look like rear drums or dummy discs for appearance.

As for solder, acid shouldn't bother it but to be certain with your particular brand, do a test piece. It should only etch up the surface a little because it only reacts with the iron oxide in rust.

The only thing you could fill those with and still be able to work it later is more solder. Personally, I'd do all construction and addition first, then come back later and fill any gaps with either a flexible seam sealer (caulking, silastick, etc) or with an epoxy putty (the two part knead together type commonly sold to repair leaks in radiator or fuel tanks). Neither of those options would be able to be reworked afterwards although the putty can be used to form parts and drilled/tapped for construction purposes.
Thank you 2redrovers, I think I would like to keep the possibility to work it later so I should stick with solder I guess.. Though after adding paint I guess I will not be able to work it anyway, until I clean up the areas from paint before I can solder.. This makes me want to wait a bit more before painting hahaha want to be sure I'm done adding stuff! I would like to add a front strut tower brace and maybe fix a few things in the rear suspension mounting.

I see what you mean with the disc brake on the diff, but the car is already pretty low and since I plan to drive it in mild offroad (as in packed dirt or very fine gravel) I am afraid it would destroy too easily if I come across a rock or other obstacle.. And since there is no actual diff and just a locked spool, the two wheels are currently locked so having it to one side should no be too much of an issue... I might add a dummy disc on the other side for looks though

Also another thing I think might cause me some problem for painting, I used galvanized steel from air duct for the floor, rear wheel tubs, 4 link boxes and transmission tunnel. Some places I removed the coating with a wire wheel but some places still have the coating. Will that be a major issue for painting and do I have to brush it all off? I think I don't really need a perfect paint job on the chassis but I would like to avoid a major mess hahaha

Thanks for all the help and for following!

Frederik
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  #883  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:36 PM
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Just make sure to clean all the dirt and oils off with a wax and grease remover, then spray the whole thing with an etch primer that states it can be used on all metals including zinc.

Yeah play it safe and be sure you're done adding structures. It'll be easier to work on. I'm sure the single disc will work fine with the locked diff and with a dummy on the other side, no one will know while it's driving.
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