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Micro R/C Trux! Anything smaller than 1/12 scale. VMGs, Mini Z's etc!


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  #16  
Old 01-05-2019, 11:53 PM
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I dunno, on that i like the removable or hidden ramps on that more than flip up. Might even be able to do some kinda remote in-out on them.

If you can find the crew parts, maybe? Most trucks then were single cabs, and your turning radius would get even worse going crewcab. Front axle can tighten up radius with some trimming, but unless you ditch 4wd it'd still limit steering angle.

For bodywork I'd probably just knock together a headache rack, carve some doors into the wedge, and look into fender shrinking.
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  #17  
Old 01-06-2019, 06:04 PM
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Hidden ramp is probably the best look. I had a crazy thought while driving to work about making a set of rear wheel chocks that popped up when the ramps where retracted under the deck. Dunno if I could pull it off but would be real cool.

When I mentioned the crew cab I meant that the ramp cab used to be a crew cab a long time ago (I wrote when I was tired so probably didn't read the way I thought). I do know where the parts are so I can dig them out and show you what it looked like in that version. The ramp will stay single cab (cos I'm not making new rails again just yet) and will be doing details like you mentioned on the wedge etc. I'm toying with the idea of making another front grille/bumper for it too but I'll get it functional first I think.
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  #18  
Old 01-09-2019, 10:39 PM
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I could see some auto-chocks working if you stick something like a bellcrank at the top of travel for your retracting ramps. Probably lightly spring the chocks down into the bed. Or go with seperate servos and a sequencer like model aircraft landing gear.

Maybe run the ramps with a rack & pinion setup like a cd player drawer, couple limit switches at the ends.
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2019, 11:39 PM
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I like the rack and pinion idea, was probably going to see if the gear motor "servo" thing was of any use for it. Could maybe even run that like a winch motor with a pulley setup maybe. Need to get some little switches. Want to upgrade the Double E excavator so it doesn't need the stupid clutches going "click-click-click" every time I push the wrong stick (happens A LOT lol)
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  #20  
Old 01-12-2019, 01:49 AM
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Just for fun, I found the extra cab

I found the extra pickup tray after but haven't taken another pic. Have been distracted figuring out the basics of the new 10ch system and some battery hookups. I've also modded the servo position so it sits lower through the mdf.
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  #21  
Old 01-12-2019, 05:45 AM
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Servo lowered

And after a lot of fiddling it steers

Kinda...never mind doin three point turns, more like thirty on a good day lol
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  #22  
Old 01-13-2019, 05:14 PM
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Yeah, the extended cab isn't doing it for me.

For steering, abt your best bet is get the axle guts & knuckle upgrade. File inside the axle C, on the knuckle to get full steering throw. It's not going to be a drifters 'Shopping Cart' steering angle, but it's an improvement
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  #23  
Old 01-13-2019, 05:44 PM
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This is how the truck used to look way back in about 2001. I cut the stock "chassis" and stretched it, so it was still a big wheeled monster truck (just 2wd). I thought it was pretty cool at the time considering it was the first time I'd ever done anything like that .. blame RC car action magazine lol.


Thanks for the tips, I might look at getting an upgrade at some point when I've got a few spare pesos. I'm half wondering if its worth trying to make a 2wd front axle and maybe locking out this one to work as a rear axle for another truck.
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  #24  
Old 04-17-2019, 05:23 AM
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Minor update sort of.. I made a new front axle for the truck so it's now just rear wheel drive only. I'll get a photo later because I didn't take any when I was working on it. I was getting too frustrated, I might have been tempted to throw something... In the end it did drive BUT it had absolutely pathetic steering angle, forget about three point turns... More like 35 at least.

So for a break I've dug out an old chestnut

And I've been attempting to make some servo drives... First one *functioned* but just. The second one was better. Didn't have any tube so I made one from steel sheet and welded it down the seam. I've used a plasterboard wall toggle because that's what I had in the junk draw. In the end used the nut and bolt from it and a random washer, with another bit of "tube" to act as coupling. The servo driving it worked well enough but it was too slow really.

I tried direct drive, but there wasn't enough torque to push anything.

Wonder if I could use the direct motor in the servo gearbox for better speed? Need to get some gear motors but got no cash to spend to this stuff.. I'll work something out...
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  #25  
Old 04-17-2019, 06:29 AM
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Couple of shots of the axle.

You may also notice that the front wheels changed colour. I picked up another firetruck that used the same wheels for a few bucks so I could start fresh. The other ones were too wonky.
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  #26  
Old 04-17-2019, 05:12 PM
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Cool loader

Couple suggestions on steering
Shorten up the arms on the steering knuckle to the length of the servo arm. That gets it back to 1:1 ratio. With your longer knuckle than servo arm, servo travels much further angle for push rod distance, can't deflect knuckle as far. Your knuckles circle is about double the servo

Maybe move servo inboard some so it can swing both ways without arm hitting chassis, or let you run longer arm
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  #27  
Old 04-17-2019, 06:54 PM
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The loader has some neat details considering it's a really cheap rc toy.

When I had the other axle in the truck I was unable to move the servo even though it's never been in an ideal spot. Now that I have made another one I have more room to play with. I think I should be able to move it to the middle and maybe run separate links to each side? As you said, I'll be able to run a full size horn and get more swing. I'll try and redrill the knuckles for a shorter radius.

I love this hobby but gee it gives me a headache lol.
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  #28  
Old 04-17-2019, 07:56 PM
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Don't have to redesign it all

I'd just shorten the knuckles, (match servo horn length)
shove servo inboard enough for arm to clear the spring mount.
Run a single link to whichever knuckle is farther away, (minimizes bumpsteer)
then a draglink between the 2 knuckles.

Then when it acts right, remake the axle and servo mount in 'not cardboard'
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  #29  
Old 04-17-2019, 09:55 PM
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The mounting plate is mdf, just looks like cardboard. Actually now that there's no diff to get in the way I might be able to turn the horn 180* and fit a full length one.. Maybe.. And you're right, if I only change the servo link then I will only need to drill one hole on one side. The drag link (?) should still work as it is now.
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  #30  
Old 04-19-2019, 01:44 AM
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And I've managed to have a small win (with your help)

Moved the servo to the center and mounted a fresh servo horn 180 * from previous version. Remade the links because the old one just refused to fit. Drilled one knuckle further in and then found I had too much swing on the outside servo position, moved to the third hole in and got max free travel.

I don't have a battery charged at the moment so I can't do a drive test but the servo test worked well. I might be able to get down to three point turns now
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