Size MATTERS!

[igotit]

Looking good....way to do it justice.

[Rolex]

Thanks, igotit. You ain't seen nuttin' yet. Wait till I add the pics of the one I've been working on.

[Kenworth7]

How strong are those "welds"...? Is it just as strong as if it were a single piece? I got some of that tube from an architectural supply store a while ago, thinking to try something similar, but wasn't sure how much structural strength was in a soldered connection. AMAZINGLY interesting to see your work here, if you'd give an idea how dependable that kind of "welding" is, and how strong, I'd really appreciate it.

[Rolex]

If you're referring to the soldering, it's silver solder done with a torch. Much harder than standard lead/tin solder and needs a higher temperature to flow. Wherever possible I also insert another tube inside wherever there's a seam. Rather than separate at that point, it will bend somewhere else.

[Kenworth7]

Originally Posted by Rolex

If you're referring to the soldering, it's silver solder done with a torch. Much harder than standard lead/tin solder and needs a higher temperature to flow. Wherever possible I also insert another tube inside wherever there's a seam. Rather than separate at that point, it will bend somewhere else.

WOW! So it's strong enough to break elsewhere? Then that's strong enough for me... I'm going to go buy specific stuff to experiment with this (Thanks for the reply! Ive been refreshing this since I posted it to see if it got answered).

I see that small Benzomatic torch, and the label on the solder is hard to see... could I get a shopping list from you, of the ideal torches and types of solder that I should get to experiment with? I'd rather get your top 10 suggestions to buy and mess with than hit-and-miss with a few trips to the hardware store or from online...

Price is no object- what solder and what torch(es) would you recommend for the nicest/strongest job? I'm happy to buy overkill and too much/too many/too high quality, so be liberal in what you recommend. This exact thing has been on my mind for sooo long, I even bought brass tubes all 3 times I went past the art supply/architecture supply store thinking I'd figure something out. No rush, but if you'd find the time to make a shopping list of what I'd need to solder like you did, that would be just awesome...nothing like asking someone who's done it already.

Thanks!

[Trini2DBone]

Holy crapola! Only just now seeing this build! Awesome work! Love the attention to detail!
Also I been wanting to see that desert sand shade of paint after it's been sprayed...looks sweet!

[Rolex]

Thanks, Trini2DBone. It was Tamiya paint in the small rattle can that was used for the Desert Tan. I've been on hold with my other Humm Vee but I hope to get a few pics added here soon. That one is being done in olive drab as a slant back and sprayed with Krylon ULTRA FLAT Camo in the large can. It MUST say Ultra Flat on the lable. I found it at an auto supply store. It was recommended by super painter NCNitro, and boy, was he right. It's the most perfect flat I've ever shot. If I decide to redo the MP Humm Vee, that's the paint I'd use. It's available in Olive Drab, Black, Brown and Tan.

Okay, Kenworth7, for the soldering, a butane torch is fine. The size you see in the pics is my preferred torch for any brass work, but nicely adjustable for anything. It might be a bit slow for heating up solid stock, but I don't like using Map/Oxy inside. It's push button ignition so it's easy to deal with.
If you've done any soldering before you'll know that having the work clean is VERY important. I clean any areas that will be soldered with a STEEL wire brush in a Dremel. NOT the plastic brush or the brass but the silver steel rotary brush.
The flux I use is AlphaFRY WaterFlow 2000. It's a basic plumber's flux but I've found this brand to be very effective. The solder I use is lead free silver bearing acid core .062 or about 1/16" thick. For some of the detail work, like mirrors and water can holder, I use a softer lead/tin solder just because it's easier to clean up before painting and is not subject to load.
I've never had a joint break but I wouldn't be building with brass if it was for a basher.
The chassis is attached by the front and rear suspension to a hard body, and the frame through the center is just to mount the parts and keep things in proper alignment.
Before mounting it under the body I took it out for some test runs and it would wheelie on demand. That's a lot of stress on such a lightweight frame without being mounted in the body, but it held up flawlessly. I was actually waiting for it to fold but it just came back for more. Inside the 2 long frame rails are smaller rectangle tubes soldered inside. That's what gives it such strength while still keeping it fairly light. Some of the framing around the motor and rear suspension was done with solid stock.

[Kenworth7]

Thanks, Rolex! Sorry to bother you with the question, but that's the price you pay for showing off some really nice work. VERY MUCH appreciate your time in the reply, thanks again!

[Rolex]

No problem, always willing to help out. I have several small torches, including a pencil torch for the smaller parts. The orange one you see was a quick substitute. My regular BernzOmatic needed a cleaning and wouldn't light with one hand.
You can see both of the BernzOmatic torches in the pics in post #7.

[bluedually]

Looks solid. I really need to work on mine.