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Scale 1.55's Scale trucks that use 1.55" fitting tires and similar. Approx 1/10th scalers with wheels smaller than 1.9".


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  #46  
Old 02-22-2017, 11:53 PM
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My M2.5 screws and locknuts finally arrived, so I finished the rear axle leaf mounts and got it all put together. No help from Jax this time. At this point, I realized either the axle or the chassis was not aligned, couldnt tell which was the culprit. I realized it was probably those aluminum cross braces I made a while back, and decided to cut and bend some nail plate steel and make a nice fat brace to base the rails on.

This worked out MUCH better, everything snapped into alignment after some minor tweaks to the chassis, straightening out some tiny bends and twist. I really took my time with this, spent about 3 hours just carefully mocking it up and measuring and bending and all that. Drilling, then re-measuring, re-mocking it up, then finished drilling. It feels so good when patient effort pays off. I was really worried that all my tiny errors and tolerance issues here and there would end up with an axle misalignment that was not salvageable. Luckily that was not the case

Test fitting the brace.



Done! (Well, need to trim the bottom bit flush with the chassis)



Some shots of what I worked out for the leaf mounts on the axle.





The motor-to-driveshaft adapter also arrived, so I was able to connect my 3:1 gear reduction unit to the transfer case. I may need a shorter shaft though. I have no idea if that reduction unit will last or if it will shred itself due to the size/weight of the vehicle when its done. The motor there is a stock CC-01 540, no idea how many turns it is, but I'm guessing mid 20s.

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  #47  
Old 02-23-2017, 11:35 AM
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Really great stuff here.
Glad to see you get some problems sorted out.
I always enjoy the challenge of scratching it up.
Looking fantastic.
Stay the path, going to be a cool ride.
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  #48  
Old 02-24-2017, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 2Beers View Post
Really great stuff here.
Glad to see you get some problems sorted out.
I always enjoy the challenge of scratching it up.
Looking fantastic.
Stay the path, going to be a cool ride.
Definitely feel better about it now that Im getting closer to a running chassis, even if that bracing is super not-scale . Thanks bud.

--

I'm a little concerned about wheel size. If I go 1.55, that will be like having a 14" rim since this is 1/9 scale. If I go with 1.9s, that would be like having 17" wheels which is OK but definitely bigger than the 15s that these came with at the time.

1.7" wheels would be the perfect size, but they are all proportioned for semi trucks and probably wouldnt look right on this.

Any suggestions?
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  #49  
Old 02-24-2017, 11:31 AM
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Closer and closer to a roller!

You could go with a 1.7 stamped beadlock wagon wheel. RC4WD makes them

http://store.rc4wd.com/Stamped-Steel...ls_p_1829.html

As far as I know they just come in black but you can paint them any color like the more popular white for example.

Throw on a set of 1.7 DC Trail Country's at 95mm tall and I think it would look quite scale.
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  #50  
Old 02-24-2017, 12:29 PM
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Thanks 25aniv, I had seen those but assumed that price was for 2 wheels. Looks like it's for 4, so this may be a good option!

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  #51  
Old 02-24-2017, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeThePro View Post
Definitely feel better about it now that Im getting closer to a running chassis, even if that bracing is super not-scale . Thanks bud.

--

I'm a little concerned about wheel size. If I go 1.55, that will be like having a 14" rim since this is 1/9 scale. If I go with 1.9s, that would be like having 17" wheels which is OK but definitely bigger than the 15s that these came with at the time.

1.7" wheels would be the perfect size, but they are all proportioned for semi trucks and probably wouldnt look right on this.

Any suggestions?
Back when I was on a wheels size research rampage for my Escort, I realized the 1.55, 1.7 and 1.9 are all misleading specs, maybe you know already but 1.55 do not scale directly as in 1.55 x the scale you have. They are much larger than 1.55, more like 1.7 apparent dimension. So they look like 17s on my Escort since it is about 1:10 scale, and I was looking more at 14s or 15s max...


15s are about 16 at the wheel lip (the part you see) on a 1:1, at 1/9 scale it converts to 1.77. So I think the 1.55 will be just right if you are looking for 15s, here is the diameter of RC4WD 1.55 steelies, pretty much exactly 1.77"!


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  #52  
Old 02-25-2017, 10:11 AM
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Hey Joe! Great work so far on the 'ole burb. It took me a good while shimming the front to get the bind out of the front suspension on my bruiser. It's stuff like that that when you get it, you're happy you did it. Kudos on getting the chassis square, especially on a homemade version. One thing I like to do if I can't avoid not using a Phillips head screw is putting the screw head inside the chassis and leaving the nut outside the chassis. Little things like that really help bring in the scale appearance. Also I do think the 1.55s look right at home on the Blazer body. Take a look at my jimmy and you might agree. 1.7s look good, but I do think the 1.5s do it better.


Keep on trucking

Harry
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  #53  
Old 02-28-2017, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Frederik View Post
Back when I was on a wheels size research rampage for my Escort, I realized the 1.55, 1.7 and 1.9 are all misleading specs, maybe you know already but 1.55 do not scale directly as in 1.55 x the scale you have. They are much larger than 1.55, more like 1.7 apparent dimension. So they look like 17s on my Escort since it is about 1:10 scale, and I was looking more at 14s or 15s max...


15s are about 16 at the wheel lip (the part you see) on a 1:1, at 1/9 scale it converts to 1.77. So I think the 1.55 will be just right if you are looking for 15s, here is the diameter of RC4WD 1.55 steelies, pretty much exactly 1.77"!
Thanks for that, makes me feel better about the 1.55s. Ill pick up some of those or maybe the landies.

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Originally Posted by Bullitt View Post
Hey Joe! Great work so far on the 'ole burb. It took me a good while shimming the front to get the bind out of the front suspension on my bruiser. It's stuff like that that when you get it, you're happy you did it. Kudos on getting the chassis square, especially on a homemade version. One thing I like to do if I can't avoid not using a Phillips head screw is putting the screw head inside the chassis and leaving the nut outside the chassis. Little things like that really help bring in the scale appearance. Also I do think the 1.55s look right at home on the Blazer body. Take a look at my jimmy and you might agree. 1.7s look good, but I do think the 1.5s do it better.


Keep on trucking

Harry
Still having issues with chassis alignment, I feel like it will be a constant struggle on this build! Good tip - I dont really mind having phillips, I tend to have trouble with hex scews stripping, or the little allen wrenches stripping.

-----

A little teaser of some of the stuff I've been doing. Made the motor mount and the front axle leaf mounts.


Looks like a...

Dont worry, I trimmed the top down.




It puts the leafs up a bit higher than I wanted, but its not a big deal.


Also picked up some traxxas driveshafts for the center.

I'm frustrated with the front axle. The shackles are a bit lower than the hangers (my fault), so this tilts the axle back and drops the pinion a bit. I'll see if it becomes a problem and make longer hangers, if so. Not ideal, but Im just kinda over it at this point. Once I get it running and get some satisfaction out of that, it might be time for a break from this to recharge and come back fresh to fix some of the issues. Now all that's left is to get the servo and electronics in and we're running.
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  #54  
Old 02-28-2017, 09:41 AM
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"I'm frustrated with the front axle. The shackles are a bit lower than the hangers (my fault), so this tilts the axle back and drops the pinion a bit. I'll see if it becomes a problem and make longer hangers, if so."

Making good progress. That frame and mount setup should have no problem carrying the Burban around!

Certainly not ideal for a drive/steer axle (or any axle for that matter). Dive in and make new hangers. You've got the blueprint there, just needs tweaking as you go. It's so close to being a roller
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Old 02-28-2017, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 25aniv View Post
"I'm frustrated with the front axle. The shackles are a bit lower than the hangers (my fault), so this tilts the axle back and drops the pinion a bit. I'll see if it becomes a problem and make longer hangers, if so."

Making good progress. That frame and mount setup should have no problem carrying the Burban around!

Certainly not ideal for a drive/steer axle (or any axle for that matter). Dive in and make new hangers. You've got the blueprint there, just needs tweaking as you go. It's so close to being a roller
After I attached the driveshafts it appears that the problem axles have swapped. Now the rear pinion is tilting down slightly. I'll save that fix for later, right now I just want to get it RUNNING!

---

After a little more work, I got most of the mechanical/fab stuff finished. I had to cut out a bit of the inside of the traxxas yokes at the transfer case side as they are meant for shafts that are flat on both sides. The t-case I have has round shafts with a flat spot a couple millimeters back, so I had to also file the round part flat all the way out to the tip (sorry, forgot to take pics).

Basically it was like --___--| and I made it like ____--|

Anyway, the motor is mounted, the t-case is mounted with the shafts, the chassis stiffened up a bit because of it, and things are looking good. All thats left is the servo and electronics! And yeah, the motor sits up a bit too high, I'll probably adjust the mount to get it maybe 1/2" lower, we'll see.

I'm just absolutely loving the suspension bounce this sucker has, its so freaking smooth and responsive. I doubt I'll even put dampers on it, its just too much fun to watch it bob up and down unlike any RC I've had before. (Video a bit further down) Prepare your web connection, lots of pics ahead.

(Those are 1.9 landies for the time being until I get my 1.55s)










And I was seriously surprised at the flex it has. Really shocked me. Not like I'll be needing it for how I'll be running it, but damn.


J and J stopped by to help tune the suspension.


Jack dropped the chassis on Jax shortly after this photo was taken.


He was pretty nonplussed about it.


Here's a little clip of the suspension bounce. Maybe I'm just inexperienced and havent seen enough in person, but this feels extra smooth and soft to me with great rebound. Going into this, I always had the idea in the front of my head that this was not going to be another stiff bouncy build, but that it would have this soft plush feel to it so that it would look less toy-like off road. I'm feeling hopeful that I've accomplished this. (The tool at mid chassis is just there to even out the weight distribution for the vid.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8cZ...ature=youtu.be

Next steps are obviously the servo, and then to solder the xt60 connectors to LiPo and ESC, tune the sidewinder 3, and get it all mounted. Really wish that front diff was open, turning radius is beyond abysmal!

Last edited by JoeThePro : 02-28-2017 at 09:39 PM.
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  #56  
Old 03-01-2017, 04:37 AM
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Default 1/9th 1985 Suburban scratch build

Looking good!
I had a buddy with a 85 burban (tan with barn doors) with damping like that! Going into a corner would bounce twice before finally settling in. Got only a little better with 12 of us in it.
Hopefully the body doesn't weigh too much for it.
One suggestion for shocks if you do need them are mini-quake or mini-t shocks. They're scale in diameter, and have lightweight springs for helpers if needed. The fuller size trucks weigh enough they still wallow a little without constant pogoing


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  #57  
Old 03-03-2017, 08:11 PM
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Really liking the stance of your chassis, and impressed by the flex! Makes me want to try out leaves instead of links on my upcoming Hilux build.

Do you think some flex is coming from the chassis or is it all suspension flex? Either is good anyway since chassis flex also happens on 1:1 anyways, just wondering. I think you will likely need more leaf once the weight adds up with battery, body and all. I'm wondering if there is some material that can be used for additional leaf, but not as thick as the regular ones? Thinking maybe the type of spring you find in measuring tapes or recoil starter, much thinner than the leaves on RC kits. So you can add some but still keep softer suspension.
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Old 03-14-2017, 06:48 AM
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Looking good!
I had a buddy with a 85 burban (tan with barn doors) with damping like that! Going into a corner would bounce twice before finally settling in. Got only a little better with 12 of us in it.
Hopefully the body doesn't weigh too much for it.
One suggestion for shocks if you do need them are mini-quake or mini-t shocks. They're scale in diameter, and have lightweight springs for helpers if needed. The fuller size trucks weigh enough they still wallow a little without constant pogoing

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Ohhh that sounds fun. Wish I could ride in one! Thanks for the suggestion, once its all complete I'll see if I need the shocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frederik View Post
Really liking the stance of your chassis, and impressed by the flex! Makes me want to try out leaves instead of links on my upcoming Hilux build.

Do you think some flex is coming from the chassis or is it all suspension flex? Either is good anyway since chassis flex also happens on 1:1 anyways, just wondering. I think you will likely need more leaf once the weight adds up with battery, body and all. I'm wondering if there is some material that can be used for additional leaf, but not as thick as the regular ones? Thinking maybe the type of spring you find in measuring tapes or recoil starter, much thinner than the leaves on RC kits. So you can add some but still keep softer suspension.
Thanks, the insane flex is due to the softness of the springs, mostly. Very little chassis flex, if any. I added a helper spring to each corner as you'll see below, really helped with support, and doesnt totally kill flex. But Im not super concerned with flex anyway, Im going (trying) for realism here.

----------

Here's a couple shots of the leafs I added. By the light of Zeus, these things are a pain in the butt to make. The drilling is the worst part because they are such hard steel, gotta manage heat very carefully or you'll kill the spring. Took me a few tries to get it right.

I also mounted the servo, went smoother than I expected for never having done that before. Scrapped the first attempt and used better steel in the end. Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance








We're having some fun at work with a drawing I made on a whiteboard in the kitchen. People have been adding to, and I feel a Christmas tree strapped to the roof coming.



I've got to lower the motor a bit, the shaft going to the t-case is just too high, especially since I dont have a tranny to keep it low. The axle wrap is also very real, since these springs are really soft. I actually removed the 3:1 gear reducer, and just tuned the ESC max power down a bit to keep the speed in check, and its actually kinda cool how it just cruises smoothly up to speed. Its actually having to work to pick up speed now which is cool, much more realistic looking.

Finally I'm debating changing this to an '89 Scottsdale, because after seeing some pics I just love the front. I'm a little confused about the headlight styling on these things. Its like they reverted to the 1980 headlight style for the Scottsdale in '89, unless I'm just not familiar enough with the styling of different trims. Anyway, looks sick to me, so I may replicate this bad boy.




More pics here, at bottom.
http://1990suburban.com/facts/year_c...rban/index.cfm

Last edited by JoeThePro : 03-14-2017 at 07:00 AM.
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  #59  
Old 03-14-2017, 02:50 PM
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Yeah from 81 up they made trims with single headlights and trims with duals pretty much every year, the 89-91's are bit different than rest in design trying to look more like the new updated trucks that came around in 88.

Only 1 tons/crew cabs and blazer/suburbans stayed square body solid axle 87-91 with the 1/2 and 3/4 tons going IFS with a more rounded design.
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Old 03-14-2017, 07:55 PM
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On a truck I had with axle wrap issues I did two links from the bottom of the axle to the chassis like track bars.
I also had one I did top and bottom of the diff to the skid plate (like a camaro track bar)


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