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frizzen 07-20-2019 06:47 PM

Doka gets 8-spoke hubcaps.

Chop M-wheel at the inner-bead wall of outside, chop the stiffener ribs, chop the wheel hex, trim the inner bead off, sand to thickness. Then some adjustment to the maisto wheels to make it work around the spinners and diifferent offsets.

2redrovers 07-20-2019 08:59 PM

Now they look the business! Nice work.

frizzen 09-27-2019 10:24 PM

Get low.

Cruising after work one day.

I took this truck to a meet, and seriously my departure angle sucks! I need rear lift.

At this meet several people who saw me playing with the suspension mentioned (with some disappointment) that i "should have made the lowrider hop."
Yes it's possible, it would take a different game plan and a Motor and Esc instead of a Servo.

First off VWs go bagged, everything else can get either bagged or juiced. I don't make the rules.

If i were doing a car as a hydraulic Hopper, i'd be setting it up like some of Jevries 'hopper' and ''way of the knot'' type of model cars.*
He's an old school badass i've been following since back when the 'Mad Modeler' forum was around.

Here's the rc hopper theory i'd be working with, if i chose to do that.
Suspension travel is because the axle is vertically mounted freely in a channel or something that gravity can pull back 'Low'. String pulls straight down on suspension for 'High', pulleys / eyelets / bushings to redirect line back to motor. String wraps around lift motor armature or geared shaft near it, and wads string up on it. Motor pulls string fast, car comes up fast. Probably install some short soft-ish springs between the axle and thing the motor pulls to help charge the hop. Small hop, plus hitting hop as the springs hit full squish, bigger hop, plus hitting again, bigger... Balance car right and you can lift the rear and hop BIG, like hitting bumper.

I'd probably run seperate servos Right and Left rear with Front as hopper described above. With a rear weight bias, that should at least give front, back, gas hop, 3-wheel. I'd probably need 4 servos to get side/side.
If there's room, a bluetooth speaker setup to annoy everyone with my music. I might even want to try to stuff some short springs under it, so the body and anything driving wants to do even more of the 'horribly bouncy while driving on smooth road' thing. (An actual use for a tamiya truck shaker?)

Most real lowriders run IFS and Solid axles, but there's not a lot of 1/14 i've seen that does that. If working on a solid axle rear, probably go with a 3 or 4 linked rear with a 'chain bridge' to hopefully get a standing 3-wheel.

I really like the front end on the "Beswitched" 1967 impala customized RadioShack car. It allows for both 'Lay&Play' and 'Hopper" control of the car

Maybe if i find something used and *REALLY* cheap along the lines of these:
early 2000s Radioshack lowriders, like 58, 64, 67 Impala, 69 El Camino
Newbright SnoopDeville, 74 caddy coupe deville
Newbright Jessie james 54 Chevy car
Tamiya Lunchbox body with custom frame, 1970s Vanning style
possibly some kind of Truck,
WPL Nissan pickup with full bed and cap. (Maybe make it a 'bed dancer' ?)

2redrovers 10-01-2019 07:15 AM

It's a cool experiment.. Too much for me but I'll watch along if you embark on a bouncer.

Did you grab any video or do you know if anyone else did? I like checking out the meets like that on the tube when I get tired of standing up at work.

frizzen 10-02-2019 12:48 AM

You don't want to see me film and drive! It's nearly as bad as someones dad filming in vertical. Still haven't found any vids from meet

So here's this instead

And some RC trucks

I'd probably just be happy with rear static sitting higher.
Its been kinda funny, my wife spent more time playing with just the 'front bags' and underglow on this build than any of the other RC cars i've ever had. Sigh, turns out she's a lowriding, van chick...

I might have been trying to come up with ways to be able to run the rear with a 3-link on 2 servos, but that'll quickly move into the world of back half the chassis in brass and getting rather crazy. Or swapping all the parts for more scale, or a gearmotor axle. I probably really want to stay away from looking into 130 size shaft-drive trans for trailing arm swingaxle ideas.

However while browsing model Lowrider stuff, i saw a model displayed nose up on a road sitting on 2 of the multi-strand fiberoptic flashlights. I guess old V-Dubble-down probably only needs 1 scrape plate since it's got a trailer hitch. Guess we'll see if it needs 'titanium' or 'mild steel' coloring.

2redrovers 10-02-2019 01:08 AM

Does that make her a Van-Doll??

frizzen 10-21-2019 04:48 AM

Sup homes?

I didn't get the LowLow out of the truck fast enough. The lowrider bug got me.

If it's not scraping you're too high.

Dragging is actually pretty cool. So i've a titanium grind block, with a little mild steel to drag. Might need to go 1 more 'titanium' , or maybe add a hotter yellow flickering.

Frederik 10-22-2019 04:00 PM

The light things look awesome, they look just like dragging! I think you just need to adjust the length a bit to make them shorter and it'll look 100% legit!

Wombii 10-22-2019 07:53 PM

That looks awesome! How did you mount the grindy things? Also, don't set fire to your living room, unless the fire truck is ready.

2redrovers 10-22-2019 08:31 PM

Bro.. Do you even Low? :cool:

Cool idea

frizzen 10-23-2019 05:19 PM

Thanks guys! I stole the idea off some 1/25 model lowrider builders. It's pretty cool, the fibers bounce around while driving. Keep it moving and it looks pretty sweet.

These are some fiberoptic things made for girls to clip in to their hair, seemed good for this since it was small, self contained, and cheap. I'd ordered white and red for testing, but that one was TOO red so i swapped the 3mm led to yellow.

For that pic I punched 2 holes in the chassis, slid the fibers through. I'm modifying the fibers and the chassis stock battery compartment door for passthrough so that i can easily install or remove the sparks with just a screwdriver. Plus it moves them forward in chassis so it's a shorter cloud of sparks.

Also i think i've got a plan for the rear suspension travel now. Nothing too crazy, just a nice up/down.

2redrovers 10-24-2019 01:55 AM

...and who doesn't like a nice bit of up and down.........

frizzen 10-30-2019 05:11 PM


Stops tailgating cars even faster than using a rear window wiper

I've built in about 0.400" of useable rear suspension travel, it can go from about the ride height of the Dickie bus to laid out, and could tuck wheels up even higher. Still need to make some bracing, servo mount, servo. Plus close up the gearbox from earlier raising attempts.

Wombii 10-31-2019 08:59 PM

To be honest, The effect was so convincing that I thought you had mounted an actual sparkly thing and photographed it with a slow shutter speed. I didn't get that it was fiberoptics until this post. I may be slow, but good job.

frizzen 11-11-2019 11:02 PM

Wombii, That is a HUGE compliment! Thank you!!!

I did some math and my tamiya wheels at 1.650" (42mm) hubcaps are scale 23" rims. More than "dubs" (20" wheels) on my V-dub.

I think i've got my rear suspension travel figured out. With my front end full up, I get the rear touching hitch on ground, then up to 0.550" (14mm) below hitch.

I found an empty area in the leading edge of the transaxle that i could mount a transverse rod. Figured out the wheelbase and drilled the chassis so the rod became a hinge pin.
Then cut out the structure below the transaxle, shaved the trans, i resculpted some gaps i'd made (using some epoxy putty.)
I took some brass square stock to make a frame around the new chassis cutout, the brass then ties into the trailer hitch and its drawbar plate, and the frame is glued to chassis. None of that actually robs me of any ground clearance from stock.

After i pick up another metal gear servo and make mounts, it'll be hitting Front and Back. It's not ever going to be full-motion, and not gangster enough to ever hit a standing 3. It's not about that life.

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