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Old 04-16-2011, 11:03 AM
brios86 brios86 is offline
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Default why 4-link rear?

i wonder is it more of a scale look or does it really make a diff? i fund some spare parts that can let me 4-link the rear
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Old 04-16-2011, 11:04 AM
brios86 brios86 is offline
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difference as in performance
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:31 AM
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What vehicle?
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:30 AM
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What vehicle?
His Easy fly airplane More articulation in the air
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:07 PM
brios86 brios86 is offline
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i meant it as in general to a scale 1:10 truck? btw i have a scx10 honcho
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:13 PM
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Linked suspensions most of the time offer better articulation but for most of the trucks modeled, leafs are more scale because that's what the 1:1's have.

For a dedicated crawler anything goes because the 1:1 crawlers are usually heavily modifed as well, but when it comes right down to it, it's whatever you want to run.
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:37 PM
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There are about a million different arguments for each style of setup....whether it's 4 linked....3 linked with a "Y"/Wishbone......or 3 link with a Panhard bar.

Each setup has many advantages.....and a few disadvantages....



4 Link setups....can help to keep the suspension from binding.

It also helps to keep your rear tires planted better during articulation.....but only if it's setup correctly.


For the most part....the stock 3 link system...that is on honcho's....works pretty well....but a reverse-triangulated 4 link will perform better on the same rig..... if it's setup correctly...in my opinion.


When I say "setup correctly".....I'm meaning setup for the terrain that you plan on using it in.


4 links....have more adjustability....and with that you can better eliminate "torque twist"...by changing your link mount locations around...and your link lengths...and experimenting until it's "JUST RIGHT".


The whole problem with the 3 link vs 4 link debate....is that both can be made to work very well....and it really just comes down to how much time do you want to spend on getting your rig to perform....up to your standards?


Some quick note's about the 3 link setups....if you're planning on running them.

I'd recommend that you do away with the Plastic "Y" part of your upper link...and invest in one of the aluminum upper "Y's" that are now available.

I recommend this because if you get a metal "Y"...it will do away with 2 problems:

1. Flex.....the metal "Y's" won't flex
2. Strength.....I've pulled several bolts/screws....out of the mounting part of the Plastic "Y's"....in the past...and this is especially true if you're re-using "Y's"....that have been used before. The metal "Y" will make it much harder to experience this type of a failure.


Also....I replace ALL of the plastic swivel balls.....when I'm setting up my links on my rigs. It's just a habit thing for me nowadays....but I do it because the plastic swivel balls can distort easily...and that has a BAD effect on their ability to pivot smoothly.

Replacing the plastic swivel balls....eliminates that problem.


There's ALOT of info....on the web....mainly on 1:1......4x4 sites......about the reasons for going 4 link or 3 link....and the advantages/disadvantages of both setups on real trucks.

This doesn't always apply to our 1/10th SCALE RIGS....but the THEORY behind how each system works....remains the same.



Just type in "4 link versus 3 link" into practically any search engine.....and you'll get MORE than enough info to last you several months of reading/studying and learning.


ArOn
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:58 PM
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The best reason to 4-link an SCX is to get rid of the fragile 3-link setup.
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Old 04-17-2011, 03:03 PM
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I also forgot to add.....that if you're running the RTR HONCHO.....get rid of the PLASTIC LINKS ASAP !

They twist and flex (in a BAD way)...and are pretty crappy in my opinion.

I NEVER run them anymore.....I ALWAYS replace them with Aluminum links.


ArOn
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