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  #31  
Old 10-26-2006, 08:57 PM
96ram85chevy 96ram85chevy is offline
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not unless you frequent LA,or...some of the other lovely towns around southern cali....
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  #32  
Old 11-02-2006, 06:20 PM
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Something to watch out for:

http://tamiyaclub.com/CS/forums/thread/188318.aspx

In some instances, the rear driveshaft can contact the battery at the front U-joint, causing the E-clip to bail out.
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  #33  
Old 11-10-2006, 09:33 AM
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Another thing: If you do the fold-away mirror mod, you'll want to glue the mirrors to the body, unless you really enjoy replacing servo tape.

I, for one, do not. Shoe Goo bonds well, and can be removed if you really want to, like if you re-paint the body.
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  #34  
Old 01-01-2007, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dremelit View Post
Cut the gear cover in half, and you won't have to take the servo out to access the motor screws
That is a brilliant tio, I just did it to mine aswell. I have to admit that I did it in situ, I was very careful, had to be lol, anyway thanks for that tip. If it wasn't for that then I'dv'e had a large job on my hands just to tighten up the undone pinion screw!
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  #35  
Old 01-09-2007, 05:38 AM
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i have a question as i should be building mine this weekend.
can you cut the pinion/slipper gear cover at this point (see pic) to make motor access easier without any problems?

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  #36  
Old 01-09-2007, 05:42 AM
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but obviously in a straighter line
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  #37  
Old 01-09-2007, 07:03 AM
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You could, sure. But the plastic is thicker there and you'll have more of a gap. Cutting it down where I did leaves a small gap, and there's not much happening down there anyway.
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  #38  
Old 01-09-2007, 07:05 AM
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i was just thinking there instead of where you did it so it would:

A) be higher up and further away from mud and water
B) easier to remove (i think)
C) theres a line to follow when cutting
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  #39  
Old 01-09-2007, 11:11 AM
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It's not dirt/dust/water proof beforehand anyway, there's a largeish gab so that you can get the spanner behind the spur gear for the clutch adjustment. Adding an extra hole/gap won't be detrimental to the gears.
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Old 01-12-2007, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dremelit View Post
You could, sure. But the plastic is thicker there and you'll have more of a gap.
what i meant in the picture is cut it just above the curve - i think you mean where the plastic comes out for the spur/slipper gear? yes it is alot thicker there but i meant cut it slightly above that line so theres a curve to cut 'outside the line' if that makes sence?
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  #41  
Old 01-12-2007, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamski View Post
It's not dirt/dust/water proof beforehand anyway, there's a largeish gab so that you can get the spanner behind the spur gear for the clutch adjustment. Adding an extra hole/gap won't be detrimental to the gears.
So THAT's what those gaps are for! LOL I used the flat edge of the gap as the base to cut my cover. I used a jeweler's saw with a fine blade, so very little plastic was removed.
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  #42  
Old 01-12-2007, 01:02 PM
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I was building my diaz chassis and had to make a shorter drive shaft, if you unclip the tamyia drive shaft, remove the pin and pivot rod then bore out the U joint on a traxxas slider and reassemble the tamiya u joint into the traxxas unit, you can save $20
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  #43  
Old 01-18-2007, 08:46 PM
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Default Better brush guard and traction bar

Aluminum tube, bent with a tubing bender, held in place with some very long M3 grub screws and JB Weld.

The traction bar is a stock TLT suspension link. Just need longer screws on the axle mount and spring eye
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  #44  
Old 02-17-2007, 08:50 AM
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I found the hard way on this one. I lost all drive from the motor to the axles, all the shafts could be seen to be rotating, after taking off the pinion cover as per mod, the front and rear prop's were still moving ok. As I was on the trail, I had to wait til I got home to find out exactly what was wrong.

As all of us have these truck's I only refer to the items, and include a pic not the actual manual. It turned out that the problem was item BA25 (pinion), had come loose. So my tip is when you build the truck (gearbox parts etc...) put a little thread lock on part BA5 (grub screw), as seen here, after inc a re-grease of the other gears.


It's the top gear, the brass one that I'm referring to. I know that Tamiya doesn't say to thread lock it, but as with all the other tips in this thread, they are just tips.
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  #45  
Old 02-21-2007, 03:42 AM
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Hello, I do not speak well English. As it has little vertical clearance to the ground, I have modified some things.

First it changes the position of the batteries, because they beat in all stones.


Soon I raise to the box of speeds 25mm, simply making in aluminum four billets



Also I replace the plastic piece by steel inox where the inferior protector subjects


In order to lower the center of gravity I place the motor down and I put ahead the servo of the speed change.


To raise 25mm the back part of the body, sees the wedges blue and red.


And this ready to put moab and to swallow stones.
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