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  #16  
Old 07-24-2013, 02:28 PM
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I also just finished all the 1:1 to 1/10 & 1/12 measurement conversions in millimeters. The tamiya gta is 1/10, the revell gt500 is 1/12, and the tamiya f350 converts to something slightly smaller then 1/12.

When I converted the 1:1 gt500 to 1/12 it was the same, I then converted the 1:1 alfa to 1/10 and it measured the same as the 1/10 tamiya alfa, the 1:1 f350 to 1/12 was slightly larger then the tamiya f350 body. When I converted the 1:1 alfa to 1/12 scale it had virtually the same size dimension difference between the 1:1 gt500 (converted to 1/12) and the 1:1 alfa gta (converted to 1/12) and the 1/12 scale revell gt500 and the 1:1 alfa gta converted to 1/12.


If I did the calculations correctly it looks like the gt500 should be just about perfect scale with the tamiya f350!

Any takers want to check my math on this one?

Greatly appreciated
Thanks
Ryan
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  #17  
Old 07-25-2013, 05:14 PM
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Do you have any pictures of the your bullitt mustang fastback with a tamiya f350?
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  #18  
Old 07-25-2013, 06:42 PM
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I tried this with Traxxas 7154 hexes and they are pretty thin so narrow is possible:


Hard to tell from the angle but that is 5.5 inches.

I am trying them in a 1/14 body so narrow is good. I used mini suzuki swift wheels for mockup though and there is no way the turning radius will be acceptable. They hit the shock ball mounts easy and with the shock on there, it will suck:



Harry is your turning radius better than that or is it sacrificed to achieve the conversion? Do you know if the offset is the same for swift and cooper wheels or all wheels for the M03 for that matter? I've seen 18 spoke and 11 spoke I think on ebay but its been awhile. I might have to narrow the wheel and tire.
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  #19  
Old 07-26-2013, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scalecrawler18 View Post
Do you have any pictures of the your bullitt mustang fastback with a tamiya f350?
Once again, I have not ever seen a F350 body, so I can't tell you what they would look like together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SonoranWraith View Post
Harry is your turning radius better than that or is it sacrificed to achieve the conversion? Do you know if the offset is the same for swift and cooper wheels or all wheels for the M03 for that matter? I've seen 18 spoke and 11 spoke I think on ebay but its been awhile. I might have to narrow the wheel and tire.
I'm going to have to look at the fastback tonight. I think its pretty tight, but I can't say for sure. I'll take pictures and post up info later.

Harry
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  #20  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:22 AM
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I am pretty sure that the Tamiya M series wheels all have the same width, diameter, and back spacing. You could drill a new hole for your ball mount inward. My wheels bump the shock on full steer, but I'm not too concerned about it. For the driving I do, it will be fine.

Harry
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  #21  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:51 AM
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The more I thought about my current RC18 project, the more I thought that I wanted to get rid of that extended shaft. The shaft is .177” and I figured if I could turn it down, I could hang a bearing on it. How do I do that? Here is how it’s done on budget mode using a drill press, file, hacksaw, and sandpaper.
Because I want the shaft to be short, I could not chuck up the end of the shaft and turn it and be true, so I cut the shaft in half. I figured out where I wanted to mount my bearing block and marked it on my cut shaft. I mounted my shaft in my drill press, and tightened it. I flipped the switch and it spun smoothly, so it was ready to turn.
[/url]

I used the corner of my file to create an edge on my marked line. I then used my file’s narrow edge to create a shoulder cut. After I checked the new OD with my calipers, I removed the shaft. This diameter was .126”.
[/url]

You can see I practiced on the other shaft end first.
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I cut the shaft on the farthest shoulder from the hex.
[/url]

I was using a 5/16”x1/8” flanged bearing I had laying around in my tool box. You can use the same bearing used in the front gearbox, but you will need to make a different bearing mount.
[/url]

After some sanding with the sandpaper, the bearing has a nice snug fit.
[/url]

I marked where I was going to remove material from the chassis so I could mount my bearing block.
[/url]

I used a piece of ”x3/4” or 1” aluminum angle and cut it 7/8” long.


I drilled and tapped three holes on the bottom, a 5/16” hole to catch the bearing, and then notched out the side to allow motor clearance.


Ready to fit


Bingo!





Harry
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  #22  
Old 08-01-2013, 12:44 PM
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NIce bearing mod Harry!

What motor you powering this with?
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  #23  
Old 08-01-2013, 02:51 PM
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Stock 380 Ed.

Harry
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  #24  
Old 08-02-2013, 12:32 PM
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Nice work on the shaft and thanks for the feedback on the steering.
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  #25  
Old 02-11-2014, 05:49 PM
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I love these little 18rs....they are built well and fast out the box.
nice build.
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  #26  
Old 02-11-2014, 11:01 PM
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It really is a great platform for the smaller cars.

Harry
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  #27  
Old 08-09-2014, 10:06 AM
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I didn't see it mentioned, but how does the driveshaft hold up after you lengthen it? I was going to stretch an old 18T for a custom project but got sidelined by that. Thanks for the help!
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  #28  
Old 08-11-2014, 09:42 AM
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I really don't know. I ran just a single pack through the mustang a few months back and everything is still there. My run did get shut down because I lost a pin that kept the rear knuckle joint in place. It was probably due to vibration in the shaft, but I did not have the set screw in there either. I will probably make up another bearing mount and do the same thing I did to the pickup.

Harry
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  #29  
Old 08-11-2014, 10:49 AM
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Hmm sounds like I'll have to attempt to do the bearing mount you came up with then. If I can at least get it to run reliably, I'll post my build.
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  #30  
Old 08-11-2014, 03:02 PM
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Please do. I will probably model one up and print a couple for the two I have. The angle piece is easy to make and does not take too long. The printed version is simple easy. It's the waiting for it to come in that is the hardest part (no Tom Petty pun intended).

Harry
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