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Scale 1.9's Scale trucks that use 1.9" tires. Discuss your XC and similar type trucks.


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  #166  
Old 11-25-2019, 12:18 AM
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Looking good!!
Nate
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  #167  
Old 11-30-2019, 10:10 AM
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Looking good!!
Nate
Thanks mister



A couple of days ago I popped to my LHS to get some things.
My plan is to change the current toggel switches to these Futaba style on/off switches with BEC connectors.
They will power 5v for the interior and rear lights, the main off/on switch and 12v for the ledbar or other things.


From a local chap I got this radiator and fans intended for the Axial EXO/Yeti.
Really needed the fans, but even if I descide to run this or the cast radiator I have, they need to be narrowed to fit well.
Time will show...




The old suspension with axles was then monted up.




I can see now that the orginal SCX10 frame was really bent as the rear axle is no longer in center of the frame.
For now I will adjust them accordly, but my plan is to build all new links.
Carbon is my plan (carbon tube with epoxy'd set screws)

A little mock up for those who have forgotten how it looked.


The old cantilever system was then cleaned, modified and then fitted.
Had to grind down the front of the cantilever to go clear of the cab.
I also think I will move the upper links to the holes that are not used right above the skid.
Pinion angle need to be adjusted to.


Closeup of the cantilever.


The holes in the frame did not exactly line up with the holes in the cantilever beam holes, but with help of 3.2mm drill bit in the beam it lined up


For mockup purpose I will use these old RC4WD 85mm scale shocks.
These are the first gen and before they were called King Shocks.
Fitted some assorted springs from my stash as I have lost some springs from the other set I got.


Those above will replace these 75mm ones that have been here all the time.
I hope to have more travel, both up and down.
But first I need to make new shock towers that will also act as a motor mount.
My plan is to make them in carbon.
Template will be in styrene as that is the easiest material I have in stock.



I hope I have this up and running about xmas.
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  #168  
Old 12-10-2019, 09:00 AM
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Update from last week...

Did a test fit with the RC4WD shocks.


I used some shocke keys from my parts bin to test the the location.
The old shocks were 70, not 75mm as I thought they were.
The "new" ones are 90mm and has much greather travel, i think that will improove the handeling.


The new shocks are too long really for what I have space for.
But in my parts bin, I've found some short rod ends that will fit, think they are RC4WD ones..


Also found some shorter lower shock collars, they may be TLT ones..


With the new rod ends and collar setup the shocks did go from 90 to 82mm eye to eye.
Also started on the shocktower templets.


Engine sits a tad too high, so the shock towers need to be cut down to make things fit a bit better.
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  #169  
Old 12-10-2019, 09:22 AM
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Shock towers cut down so the body now fit on the chassis.


Still not sure on the design of these, first things have to clear other things..


Engine is now standing on it's own, first time since the rebuild began.


Made a new motor/gearbox plate.
This plate fits into the shocktower plates in a sandwich construction.
Engine is now locked and can't move sideways nor up and down.
The whole setup can be removed by taking out the 4 bolts, one in each corner of the shocktowers, plus the two shock bolts ofcourse.




These just needs a bit fettling with and then transfer the measurements to carbon.
Engine can still move a bit up and down at front, mainly because the soft styrene (1mm), and with the engine/transmission plate made in carbonfiber I hope most of that movment will go away.
I may make some sort of mount in front if I find it to flex to much.



Last week I bought a carbon tube and some epoxy, so now I have everything I need to make new links.

Have also ordered a new 3 link mount from ebay that will receive some modifications before fitting.
Manly to make a bit more space for the links, and to clean up the front area.

I'm out of flange nuts as well, so some more was ordered from ebay.
I like to use them for mockup, and they are awesome when you dont have space for a washer and a locknut.


I have also been thinking of making my own front winch bumper, but to reduce CG and also make space for either a small lightbare or some spot lights, depending what looks best.

At least this build is coming along nicely and I can't wait to have it ready for the trail season next summer.

Ellers har jeg grublet på om jeg skal lage front fanger selv, både for å spare vekt og flytte ned vinsj. Samt å ha et sted å montere en liten lysbjelke evt lyskastere.
Radiator skal jo også på plass.
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  #170  
Old 12-10-2019, 09:32 AM
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And on a sad note, the norwegian scale/crawler forum are most likely to go extinct in the spring if no one is picking it up.

If so this will be my main board to post things.

I'm sad to see it go, but I can see the reason when almost nobody is using it regularly.
If I had the data knowlege I would have taken over the board, but I have no clue other than google, post and paste when it comes to data.
Heck I'm struggling using a smartphone
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  #171  
Old 12-13-2019, 09:05 AM
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Yesterday I started on making my carbon links.
Bottom links will be sleeved with carbon, upper rears and front upper will be carbon 6x4mm tube, 2x 4x25mm setscrews and short Revo rod ends as I allways use.

Here is how I make my links.
I might add that I like my links to be exactly the same length as the other ones, hence making a jig.

My jig is a piece of 2x8" timber, but any hard wood will do.
Soft wood as balsa is no good for this.
First I lay down the mockup link and use a 3mm self tapper to mark the center of the eyes.
Then I drill the wood with 2.5mm drill bit and then fit some 3x25mm setscrews in the holes.
You may lube the setscrew so it goes into the wood a bit easier, I used some 400 shock oil, but any oil will do really...
Adjust your link so it slides easy over the setscrews.
I also write down the length for future reference.


Make sure the setscrews are as straight as possible.
I straight drill jig would be handy, I have not such thing..


Then I measure how long the tube needs to be


And then you will have something like this.
Since I'm using setscrews in this case (to save weight), the setscrews need to be glued to the tube, I'm using Zap Z-Poxy 30 minutes.
In normal case you can use allthread and make sure you have about 8mm allthread going into the ball ends.
It also makes it easier to tap the rod ends first.


Links installed.
In the same time I moved the rear upper links to a higher point of the chassis, and made the pinion angle better so it's now within 1-3 degree of the transfer output, which is good for driveshafts.


Front


Rear


How it now sits


Also think this time I want the battery to sit under the bed, under a false floor for better CG


I mainly use this size of battery in this rig, 3s 2200mAh



There was some huge savings of weight by doing the links in carbon.
Upper rear:
Brass sleeve over stainless allthread 18g, VS carbon tube and setscrews 5g.
Lower rear:
Changing from brass sleeve 7g, VS carbon sleeve 2g.
Forgot to weight the front lower.
They also got a carbon sleeve now.
Front upper was modded and moved, but since I'm waiting on a new 3 link truss, I can't finish that link as I don't know the length yet.

Steering and Panhard links are kept as they are for now.
Need to make the new shock towers in carbon and vehicle standing on tires before I make other changes due weight and clearances etc.

Been kaput this week, but good progress that makes the truck look a bit better me thinks.

PS: I did tape the carbon tubes before cutting with a hand sawblad, so little to no dust were made.
Carbon fiber are harmful you know.
I did not use gloves, the thin ones makes me itchy.
But the dust was a bit itchy after a few minutes so I washed my hands in cold water and they were fine (same method for fiberglass).
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  #172  
Old 01-06-2020, 02:14 PM
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I'm so glad to see my pictures are up again

Will post up pictures ASAP when my health allows.
Have also being able to do some small bits and ordered some stuff.

Maybe I can have this driveable soon
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Last edited by caprinut : 01-19-2020 at 11:49 AM.
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  #173  
Old 01-19-2020, 12:18 PM
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Time to have some again.

In my spare parts box I have a used axle housing with beef tubes installed.


Among the stuff I did order was a cheap 3d link mount from ebay.
I modified this by removing the center mounting point and tapped a new on the side to clear my scale engine.
The stock upper link mount worked fine, but the available space around it was at minimal, so I replaced it with this eaby item.


With the third link mounted it's a bit lower than before, and since the mount no longer do fasten in the axle ends, there is more room there for Panhard rod etc.


About ride hight


Left drop


Right drop


Center of gravity is good so far, this is at tipping point


Clearance to oil pan is good at full compression, engine will be lowered a couple of mm.


Ordered a few parts from a local ish store, and they do sell sweets.
I ordered the Simpson drink, I did not like it at all.
Worth the try tho' as I tend to drink the same stuff over and over..


The front axle were taken out again to be moved to the rear.
I have a plan for this..
The Boom Racing Phat axle housing is real heavy at 182g


The used plastic one with beef tubes came in at 80g


Plastic axle fitted to the rear
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  #174  
Old 01-19-2020, 12:59 PM
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For the front I had a different plan....

Bought the last axle house at my LHS


The plastic housing without anything comes in at 33g.


Swapped over all the axle parts from the old axle and fitted the front axle.
Without wheels, interior, electrics, bed and other stuff it comes in at 1699g.
My diet program works


So far, so good


Since I'm on a budget here I placed a add on a local fb group, asking for beef tubes, either splined or smooth and C-hubs since the orginal XR10 ones had cracked.
This was the parts I got hold of from two different sellers.
#Vanquish Wraith c-hubs, used at 11 bucks.
#Smooth XRMOD beef tubes, unused for 5 bucks
These would have cost me over 100 bucks new I had to order them, either seperate or as combo.
The were a tiny slack between those. One round of electrical tape fixed that
Comes in at 67 grams


These beef tubes also had a bit slack between them and the axle housing.
One round of electrical tape fixed the issue here too
Since I want to keep the narrow XRMOD as before, I cut of the mounting ears for the stock c-hubs.


And after cutting off the difference between axle housing and the c-hubs, I put the axle together.




The axle is a bit hard to turn of the second half of the roataion, and really tight at one spot.
Still have to grind a bit of one of the universals, but I think it's mainly down to the fact the axle housing was a bit warped out of the package and I think the gear is out of true too.
The steel axle was much smooter bit it has one hard spot too.

Need to order axle barings since it's a while last time the were replaced.
I replaced to worst of them, but is out of stock for the sizes I need.

Me like that angle


Complete to be fitted back to the vehicle.
At least 100g lighter than the steel axle



Next I need some sort of scale Wraith scale knuckles as the plastic ones is now the weak link at a bit sorry for itself.
I'm out of bent rod ends, and need either to lengthen the steering arms if I keep my current knuckles or make new links if I get new ones.

I have also ordered brass "brake disc's" and longer 4-40 bolts for the hubs.
If it gets to wide I want to order new thinner hubs to compentsate for the brake disc thickness.
Then I think I have the weight needed to still have it light ish and somewhat low CG

If I find it need some weights low down I will make the lower links in brass.

Still wondering how to make the bed in styrene and fit all the features I want it to have.
I want the bed to be no higher than now, I want a dead man switch of some sort.
I need the bed to be some sort of quick release and I want the battery to be in the middle of the chassis rails under the bed.
For that I need to raise the bed bottom 10mm or so.
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  #175  
Old 01-19-2020, 09:06 PM
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I am a big fan of this build ...........

pep
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  #176  
Old 01-20-2020, 12:25 PM
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I am a big fan of this build ...........

pep
Thanks very much sir

Fan of your rigs too
Want to share any specs?

Welcome to this board btw
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  #177  
Old Yesterday, 09:12 AM
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And the diet program continues

Ever since I made the turbos, the share weight from the metal part of the turbo was really too much for the styrene manifolds.
Even with the strengthning plates, the turbos have broken off several times and it has stripped a few threads in the heads as well.

Time has come to sling some styrene again.
As I did with the exhaust housing, I made disc's of styrene..


Bolted the discs together..


And since I don't have a lathe, I used my drill in my lap and turned down the styrene bits with a hobbyknife.
Then I glued them.


And the metal bits comes in at hefty 56grams..


Versus the styrene bits at 5 grams.


Mocked them up to see if they fits.
A friend of mine printed me some air filters for free.
Turbos are not done, need outlets and minor trimming, painting etc.




The last thing that will get a weight reduction is the valve covers that will be milled out, hope to save some grams there to.

Forgot to take pictures, but I made a new tie rod and servo linkage in carbon.
And the stock Wraith steering arms are replaced by some I made out of a sheet of aluminium, 2.5mm I think.
Need to make another set that have the tie rod holes 5mm further to the tire side and 3mm more forward to be able to get all of the steering angle available.
Now the tie rod are hitting the pumpkin at full lock.


Don't think there is much left I can save weight on, but I do plan on shaving the transfer case.

Feels good to get another step closer to get it running and tuned in.
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  #178  
Old Yesterday, 12:53 PM
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I put my ear close to my display, I think I heard those things spooling up. Going to be a neat HotROD.

Quick spec: 34, 350 stroker motor, healthy cam, red line 7500. Wife's 32, 327 complete machined block, balance & blue print. Vortex heads, mild cam.

pep

This is the best RC forum, workmanship seen is great. I like scale

Thanks for the welcome glad to be here.
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  #179  
Old Yesterday, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryCan View Post
I put my ear close to my display, I think I heard those things spooling up. Going to be a neat HotROD.

Quick spec: 34, 350 stroker motor, healthy cam, red line 7500. Wife's 32, 327 complete machined block, balance & blue print. Vortex heads, mild cam.

pep

This is the best RC forum, workmanship seen is great. I like scale

Thanks for the welcome glad to be here.
Thanks for the kind words

Nice spec on the vehicles!

I have always loved hot rods, used to buy Street Rodder magazine etc a decade ago and other rod based magazines.

Here in Norway Hot Rods are just getting more expensive by the day.
I would taken this with open arms , but mind the 76k price tag, ouch!
https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=167371524
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  #180  
Old Today, 04:45 PM
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I like it!

It kinda reminds me of the days of on road pan cars. Trying to lighten everything on them to make them fly was alot of fun.
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