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Agricultural and Industrial Equipment A place for your agricultural, industrial, and other heavy equipment builds!


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  #61  
Old 03-06-2016, 02:22 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Hi all!

Thanks for all the comments! I've not posted many updates lately because I've started working on the finish that will go over the skeleton and make the excavator look more like the CAT 390F that is the basis for this model. Here is a sneak peek at my current design:







Best regards,
Stein :-)

Last edited by SteinHDan : 03-07-2016 at 12:39 PM.
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  #62  
Old 03-08-2016, 02:52 PM
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GULA GULA is offline
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YO, that excavator is legit bad arse!
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  #63  
Old 03-19-2016, 05:21 AM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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I've added some bronze self-lubricating bearings to the bucket linkage. I don't think they were really required, and it goes against one of the goals of this project, to keep it simple, but it just pains me to know that there is a load-bearing joint without any form of bearing in it. So it had to be done! :-)













The parts:
- R-clips: HSP 02053 Body Clip
- Bearings: 8 x 10 x 12 oilless bronze bearing

Last edited by SteinHDan : 03-19-2016 at 03:04 PM.
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  #64  
Old 03-19-2016, 05:52 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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3D printed the ABS plastic parts that go in between the aluminum sides in the boom and stick sandwiches. I also re-did the boom sides in 3mm aluminum, as by mistake I made them 6mm thick the first time, which made me have to add 3mm spacers in many other places.

The ABS parts are printed with 16% infill, except the mounts for the stick and bucket cylinders, which are printed with 25% infill.

The filament used is this one:
- eSUN ABS 1.75mm Gold

This filament's color isn't really that close to the Caterpillar yellow, but it's the closest that I've found. I know there are companies that do custom colors, like www.plastic2print.com, but those are quite expensive and have order quantity minimums.

So if anyone of you guys know of a yellow ABS filament that is a closer match to the Caterpillar yellow, I'd very much like to hear about that.











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  #65  
Old 03-21-2016, 04:18 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Starting to paint the metal parts on the boom, stick and bucket linkage. Need a couple more layers on the stick parts.
The paint color is the closest match I could find to the ABS filament color in the previous step. It's this one:
- Dupli-Color 577789 AC 3-0600
Sanded (120 sand paper) and primed with aluminum etch primer first.


It's a shame, really, to cover shiny metal in this way ;-)

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  #66  
Old 04-01-2016, 06:04 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Mounted the counterweight to the base plate. After testing with 4, 6 and 8 kg ballast, it seemed 6 kg (13 lbs) gives the best balance.

I bought 2 kg (4lbs) lead plates from a local scuba-diving shop:
- http://dykk.no/main.aspx?page=article&artno=MTDA-1

I don't like exposed lead because of the health hazards, so I covered it in liquid plastic and added a shrink wrap tube on top of that. Probably overkill and you can probably use whatever to cover the lead, but I had these things at hand.
- Polytek EasyFlo 60 Liquid Plastic
- PVC Plastic Heat Shrink Tube F/W:95mm

Then I printed a 3D clamp (ABS, 30% infill) that has two very long M6 110mm hex bolts going through it.
- M6 110mm stainless steel hex bolt

Finally adding some common furniture anti-skid rubber pads to both the clamp and the lead to avoid the lead sliding in the clamp.








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  #67  
Old 04-01-2016, 09:15 PM
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RCJEEPBUILDER RCJEEPBUILDER is offline
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Fantastic engineering! you are doing some inspiring work here.
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  #68  
Old 04-03-2016, 01:39 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Thanks, RCJEEPBUILDER! :-) I'm looking forward to getting it done... ;-)
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  #69  
Old 04-04-2016, 03:39 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Mounting the motor controllers (ESCs)

I wanted to mount the motor controllers in a compartment that had plenty of air flow, as they are the components that need the most cooling. I put them where the radiators are on the real version and I was able to add four controllers that can then control eight motors of up to 30 Amps each. Only six is required for the main motors. The two extra channels will be used for attachments and a surprise! :-)

I also wanted to be able to get easy access to the controllers and easily replace one if I need to. So I made a seat and four slot-in module mounts:




The motor controller modules each slide down into this seat:




And the air flow will be ok I think with the vents as they are placed on the original:






Each module consists of the motor controller as described previously and a 3D-printed (15% infill) module mount that attaches to the controller with two M3 nylon bolts. I use nylon here to avoid any kind of electrical connection in the screw.
















Each module is secured with one self-tapping screw. Only this screw needs to be removed to slide the module up and out again:




The seat attaches to the base plate also with just one M4 50mm bolt:








I'm pretty happy that I got all the motor controllers into this one spot, because it leaves more room for the other stuff. Even as large as this model is, it's going to get tight when everything is in place.
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  #70  
Old 04-04-2016, 06:07 PM
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Coolaid202 Coolaid202 is offline
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.

Nicely done!. I like how you are making it serviceable.

.
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  #71  
Old 04-05-2016, 03:17 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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That's awesome, very nice machinery and fine piece of engineering! I love it, super nice work.
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  #72  
Old 04-13-2016, 05:17 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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I really wanted this excavator to have proper sound. Deep and powerful bass. Not toy-like. I looked around a bit to try and find a large speaker that would fit, but came up empty. So I printed one instead. My biggest print to date. 21 hours and 290 grams of ABS. :-) (25% infill)

The speaker driver is this one:
- Pioneer TS-G1045R 4-Inch 210 W 2-Way

On the back there is a speaker terminal that I bought on Ebay:
- 44.8x21mm 2pin Red and Black Push Type Speaker Terminal

And then there are four self-tapping screws in the front, two on the terminal, and three that fasten the speaker box to the base plate.




I cut off the mounting tabs on the speaker driver, because I needed the screw holes to be closer to the cone. The flange on the self-tapping screws is now what holds the speaker driver in place:




Soldered the wires that came with the speaker to the terminal:






Attaching the speaker box to the base plate with three self-tapping screws. The soda can is just there to give a scale reference. :-)













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  #73  
Old 04-13-2016, 06:02 PM
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Awesome stuff right here. An RC excavator is on my short list. Ill probably just settle for the eagle offering. Im always fascinated by these scratch builds. Its looking pretty amazing so far. The only thing that caught my eye was the size of the main boom cylinders. Are they a bit small when scaled out. Or is it just me and my unfamiliarity with model excavator?
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  #74  
Old 04-13-2016, 10:46 PM
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Stein,

This is top shelf my man great work. That baby is going to boom with that pioneer in there. Really like the idea of using a small pc to run everything. You could nearly make in run itself with that in there! Keep it up I'll stay tuned.

Dallas
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  #75  
Old 04-14-2016, 01:52 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Thanks, Prop Shaft!

Yes, the boom cylinders are not exactly wide enough to be to scale. But the length, stroke and force is what it should be. Another thing is the width of the boom itself. It is a bit wide, even for this LME version (Mass Excavation, shorter and stronger boom). That is because I needed to fit the gear motor at the end and it looked weird if I changed the shape, so I just widened it. Those two things combined, the smaller cylinders and the larger boom isn't the best match, even if each of them by itself isn't that much off from the real scale.

But it all looks much better from the front than from this angle.

Best regards,
Stein :-)
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