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Tools of the Trade If you have a question about what tools we use in creating our trucks here. Also discuss any tool experiences you have, the good the bad and the ugly! Hand tools to all out CNC machines!


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  #16  
Old 05-08-2007, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exesivefire View Post
I think I have put this purchase off long enough..

how is it holding up outcast?
Honestly its the best tool I own. Better then my band saw. Between the two tools I can hand hack out a realistic frame in minutes. I haven't touched my files since getting it. And the dremels barely get used anymore. The belts last quite a long time, in fact the belt it came with is still fine. I only switched to a coarser belt to make it quicker at hogging down large pieces. I can't be bothered to run fine belts on it, rough sanding is more my style anyways. If I did decide to to run a fine belt I think I would be tempted to buy another one and run 2 set ups.

My only real complaint is holding the parts. If you do it by hand your bound to get burned. I have tried soft grip methods (rubber or plastic clamps / wrenches) and they just melt. Vice grips damage the finish of the part cause you have to hold it pretty tight. I have gotten in the habit of putting some gasket material between the part and the teeth and then I go to town. Parts smoking hot by the time I am done but its finished in one session. I also keep a small pail of water on the table and dip the part in it every so often to cool it down.

The absolute best thing is there is zero wasted parts now. Before I used to make sure I got 99% done with the band saw, then finish with files. Now I just cut withing 1-2mm from the finished line and then belt the entire surface down to the finished size. Doing it that way while seeming like a lot more work for the belt only takes a couple minutes...

The 1" belt is very flexible, and allows you to makes some pretty interesting curves. The edges don't fray much at all even tho I use them all the time for inside corners. Theres a belt back plate thingy that holds the belt straight, works great for doing larger straight sands but I moved mine out of the way. 99% of the time I want the belt to twist and turn with my part.

The 6" disc I find is only useful to make small straight lines as you only have a 3" area to sand with. But it has come in useful for all sorts of brackets. Just not for frames, on a frame I just go a bit slower with the belt.

This thing is perfect for everything you throw at it. Mines seen foam, plastic, alum, and even steel. Takes it all like a champ. I need to get my hands on a pair of vice grips with soft brass pads or something... Something that can grip the alum part, take the heat, but not put a bunch of teeth lines into the alum...
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  #17  
Old 05-09-2007, 10:25 PM
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wow..
most thorough reply ever!

thank you.. Hope depot carries that specific one online and it was one of the brands i was thinking of.

But I was a little conserned about the 1 inch belt..

that hasent limited you in any way though huh?
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  #18  
Old 05-10-2007, 05:42 AM
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If anything it allows you to be able to do a lot of small curves you would otherwise not be able to do. So it saves you from having to by one of those rotary sander stations.

A larger machine would only benefit you on the longer outside straight sections (say a frame rail). While totally not being useful for small stuff (the 100 assorted brackets we use). Least thats what I think.

Heres something I whipped off in 10 minutes (seriously) yesterday. I didn't spend anytime worrying about vice grip marks or anything as its a mock-up. but you can at least see the parts (that are visible) have inside and outside curves.



I could try something harder like a winch hook or something.
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  #19  
Old 05-11-2007, 09:09 AM
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Thanks for the help...

there is also this one that has a belt layed on its side, and two different sized drums at each end i was looking at....

but your info has helped me a lot, i may just go this route insted
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  #20  
Old 05-11-2007, 01:56 PM
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I'm a sheetmatel mechanic by trade and I can tell you a verticle belt is better. The problem with a horizontal belt is that it's harder to see what you are working on. I use 1 inch verticle belts at Cessna for almost everything. And we're making 30 million dollar jets, If it works for them then it should be fine for our trucks.

For the parts heating up you can try a pair of these http://www.cordovaisc.com/product.as...ndprotecti on
We use them at work but you have to be real carefull that you don't get them caught between the table and the belt or disc because they will pull your fingers right in. It's best not to use them with the disc sander. For the belt I just hold the part up off the table then you can get as close as you want because the gloves won't cut. Would it be possible to remove the table from the belt sander?
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  #21  
Old 05-11-2007, 06:49 PM
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Yes you could remove it. Its angle adjustable. Those gloves must be expensive!
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  #22  
Old 05-11-2007, 09:43 PM
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I don't know how much thoses are but just search for cut resitant gloves. I found these (http://www.hubert.com/store/catalog/... D=7766956022) for only $16.
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  #23  
Old 11-12-2007, 01:24 PM
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I know this is kind of old but the link isn't working any longer. Which model sander was this?
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  #24  
Old 11-12-2007, 01:41 PM
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http://www.deltaportercable.com/Prod...roductID=11470
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  #25  
Old 11-14-2007, 03:05 PM
Cossack71 Cossack71 is offline
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How about this for a cheap one?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34951
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  #26  
Old 11-16-2007, 05:57 AM
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yup that would work fine. Its the belt that makes life so easy. It can conform so you can do some pretty cool work...

If you do get it stock up on belts tho as you tear them pretty easy sanding alum. I have prolly gone thru 4 belts a years on mine, maybe 5... Worth every second tho. I just buy the coarsest belts I can get. If I wanted a finer edge I just go lightly. If I cared about a fine belt to sand the parts smoother I would most likely buy a second machine. I never felt the need...

I would also suggest two things to use with it to make your life easier. One is a container of water. The alum gets hot real quick and dunking it in cold water constantly helps. The other is a set of small vice grips with those feet on them. They are the only thing that I have found that doesn't mark the alum holding it, and yet small enough to work on a small part... Rubbber or plastic feet models don't work as they melt. (yes I have tried)
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