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R/C Motorcycles Two Wheeled Fury!


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  #31  
Old 12-09-2005, 08:07 AM
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At this point we are de facto the same person (JUST KIDDIN'!) :banana:
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  #32  
Old 12-11-2005, 09:01 AM
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Otay! I ran Ricky at the local big-*** BMX track yesterday, but there was still a lot of it that had about an inch of snow, so I didn't even get through a pack. It did serve to show me how it does generally however. Basically, all the springs are too weak, as ya'll have seen. I'm thinking of a swingarm that subs 2 oil shocks for the single friction unit in back, and still have to look at the forks to see if they want to come apart-The easy answer is just put a stiffer spring, but an oil shock would be neat-o: I just doubt my ability to make one! A stronger steering spring might be good and is easy enough to experiment with. I'll play with these ideas to make it cooler, even though I must say it did pretty darn well in some adverse conditions! I officially think it would be worth trying to hop it up a bit. Way to go 'Shack guys! Chris
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  #33  
Old 12-11-2005, 09:18 PM
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SWEET, now get to work with the hop ups!
I know you have nothing better to do, lol
Kevin
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  #34  
Old 12-12-2005, 07:14 AM
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So, Ricky got very dirty and was taken apart to be cleaned: The teardown just kept going until ALL the stock radio gear was ripped out, and 'Real' R/C gear installed. It now has a Novak 610-RV speedo, Futaba steering servo and Rx, and a Trinity Speed Gems Pyrite 10T Double motor! :banana: I thought I'd share some things I learned whilst doing this. First, the motor sits so close to the swingarm pivot that it's not possible to modify so you can run any smaller pinion gear than stock (13 t.) MAYBE a 12, I doubt it though. With a mod motor, that's a bit stiff: I anticipate this will be hard on my motor. Second, the front forks can be disassembled with a bit of heat from a torch to break the threadlock they use on the upper Al. nut: You don't need much heat & they pop right apart. (I've included a pic of what's in there.) If I beef up the rear suspension, much stiffer front springs will be needed! The fork legs have an O-ring seal, and I'm thinking that if I wanted to make a piston that screws on the end, I could add an extra O-ring and a little spacer or threaded insert to hold the rings in place, and possibly have an oil shock! Again, maybe, but it's worth persuing, especially if I can make cheap kits available to do the mod. I also added a pic of the slipper gear so's you could see it without a bunch of teardown- I think this is what slips, not the belt, even though it did not slip while I ran mine (With the stock motor, natch.) More soon, Chris
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  #35  
Old 12-12-2005, 07:14 AM
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Fun Fun!
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  #36  
Old 12-12-2005, 07:15 AM
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Forks:
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  #37  
Old 12-12-2005, 07:15 AM
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Slipper:
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  #38  
Old 12-12-2005, 09:08 AM
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Well, I for one welcome this new "addition" to the Ricky knowledge bank. There are a few guys over on RC Groups who have also torn into this bike and made custom hop-ups. The more the merrier I say and a different 'line of thought' can always help.

You go boy!! :nice:

BTW: people are using a Revo shock as a quick hop-up for the Ricky.
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  #39  
Old 12-13-2005, 06:48 PM
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Berry good, berry good. Now keep it up my man!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Kevin
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  #40  
Old 12-14-2005, 06:44 AM
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Aha Kmot! The Revo shock fix I wonder about, and here's why: I've had that rear spring in my hand, and even with my 'Burly-not-Girly' Kung-Fu grip (Patent applied for,) I can only collapse it about 1/4". This is hands down the meanest spring I've ever seen for an R/C shock, yet the bike will bottom out on a 16" jump! This is because they put the lower mounting point for the shock so close to the fulcrum. I know an oil-filled shock would slow that down, but to really stiffen it up, I think 2 shocks are needed. Here's my thinking on the advantages of a 2-shock swingarm: 1-The stress will be spread out over a lot more surface area on the chassis and shocks. 2- Even if 1 oil shock would work, it has a tough job, and I think 2 would allow for 'Tuning' as all your eggs aren't in one basket, so to speak. 3- I can move the lower mount point away from the fulcrum- Just a tad, but it'll help. 4- Some form of chain/belt tensioning can be built in: Needed even on the stocker, and a must if you ever wanna play with chain drive or different ratios. I also imagine that since most people do not have the ability to make a swingarm, they're gonna gravitate towards the next best thing, so the Revo shock may work but is not neccessarily the 'Best' fix for the anemic rear suspension sitch. Then of course, there's the fact that I do not have a Revo shock to try, and may be wasting my time over-engineering an expensive piece of junk that don't worky! (But I doubt it.) I'll hopefully have an arm in a couple weeks or less. I'm gonna make it a 1-piece instead of bolting 2 halves together: This will save a buttload of machining and make it so that you can remove the shocks and/or rear wheel WITHOUT dismantling the whole damn bike! (I've done it several times already.) I thank you for the tip though Kmot! If anyone has a Revo shock, give it a try & let us know-It wouldn't take much to improve the stock boinger. I also made the forks work much better! I'll do a separate post below w/info so it's easier to find for people. Chris
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  #41  
Old 12-14-2005, 07:01 AM
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Me again! So, I realize that the forks suck as bad as the rear, 'cause I'm lots smarter than you guys. :banana: Anyway, I was all set to go spring shoppin' when a gift from God appeared: At the shop there were some springs in a drawer that worked perfectly! I'm still in shock (Get it?) I used 1-1/2 springs per side: I cut one in half & then bent & ground the end flat, stuffed the legs with a fair amount of bicycle grease (Bullshot brand), and put 'em back on. HOLY SHEIST!! They work SO well! They are considerably stiffer, and have 'Damping' now! They also won't bottom out in harsh fashion, as the grease provides a bit of 'Hydraulic lock' at the bottom of the stroke, and I have almost the same amount of travel. If you could feel 'em, they seem exactly right for the size and mas of the bike (Using the highly scientific 'Push on 'em while sitting on the couch' test.) Time will tell if they're all I hope, but I'm amazed at the result- The O-ring at the top of the fork keeps the grease in nicely. Rarely does anything work itself out this smoothly, it's a HUGE difference. Now all I need is the swingarm to test this beastie: I'd like to be able to land from about 4-5 feet without hurting the bike, hopefully that's what I'll end up with. I'll keep you posted, Chris P.S.- The springs I used measure .420 OD x 2" long x .040 thick wire, if anyone's interested. I may be able to get a few more.
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  #42  
Old 12-15-2005, 06:43 AM
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There's plenty of space in the back between the side plates for 2 shocks, and the top shock cap hole is exactly the size needed to slip right onto the stock crossmember: More gifts from God? The swingarm proto won't be hard to do, hope to have it right quick. Chris
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  #43  
Old 12-18-2005, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by toyranosaur@Dec 14 2005, 06:44 AM
I'm gonna make it a 1-piece instead of bolting 2 halves together: This will save a buttload of machining and make it so that you can remove the shocks and/or rear wheel WITHOUT dismantling the whole damn bike! (I've done it several times already.)
Yup, the one piece definitely makes it much easier to pull the wheel off without having to tear the bike in two!!

Have you come up with a tensioner for it yet? Took forever to come up with the one I'm using now. And I'm still not 100% satisfied with it...

BTW, you were right - on my old Taig CNC mill it took 15 passes or about 50 minutes to cut just the profile for the swingarm. The new mill can do it in 2 passes...


I'm happy with the Revo shock with the heaviest spring available, but it wouldn't hurt to go with something a little bit stiffer.

It's good to see someone else working on these bikes! Only wish I had more time available to work on them.

Too bad Radio Shack has discontinued them, but I suppose with Ricky no longer riding for Honda it makes sense. Maybe we can convince them to bring back a Suzuki for next year!

Dave.
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  #44  
Old 12-18-2005, 06:42 AM
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Ah, Mr. Mincin! Welcome to the fray, and Scale 4x4! (For those who don't know, Dave is the 1st person to offer option parts for this bike and has a website, dammachines.com.) I most recently got my interest in bikes way up again after reading the RCCA article on the National Championships, and finally decided I had to have an H.O.R. and a Ricky. Your swingarm and sprocket got my juices flowing! Plus now I see why you began to experiment: The big bike bottoming out on 20" jumps seems a tad ridiculous, eh? I anticipate our swingarms will make it more capable of larger jumps, the hassle will be modding/building a set of forks that will match it: Pairing the anemic front end with a stiffer rear will add a whole new stunt to Ricky's repertoire- The Flying 'W'! The only minor prob I see w/forks is that they would really need a reservoir to retain stock travel: I'm playing w/mods to the existing front end as I get the time. So, how does the Revo shock mod work? Do you have front/rear end balance issues? How high can it go now and land well? I am not sure of the tensioning method quite yet: I just got a mount made for the stock rear arm just to try the dual-shock idea & I'll go from there I suppose. Please post any experiment results or info for all of us hungry Ricky owners, along with any other scale rides you may have! Cheerio, Chris
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  #45  
Old 12-18-2005, 06:43 AM
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hey chris, do you think you could make a trike conversion? basicly an oversized RC ATV rear axle, a new 2 peice aluminum swingarm, and all needed bearings, or atleast what sizes you would need, so that you can get your own. does this seem possible, or feasible? since it would look weird with 2.2 tires in the back where the stock tires look to be larger than 40 serise bowties, it would make sense to make it accept MT tires, hopefully with something to let you use the proline 23mm hexes and the afforemented tires and rims (can you say "moabs"!) so, what do you think?
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