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Scale 2.2's Discuss your scale trucks that use 2.2" sized tires. TLT based and similar.


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  #31  
Old 02-24-2009, 07:28 AM
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Traxxas shims will work. I used them in a Bruiser, Mountaineer, and a Blazing Blazer tranny. I could never find the Calandra shims. Just a thought. Powder Coating looks great
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  #32  
Old 02-25-2009, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by metomwhou View Post
The grill is cool. I've been working on doing that too, but its a major pita to remove all that material between the grills. How did you do it? Also, can you post pictures of how you have the grill and bumper mounted to the body now?
Keep up the good work.
Tom
Thanks! the grill is actually ground from behind w. a sanding drum on a dremel tool. it only worked on the middle area.., so -the edges I had to adz - that is scrape - with a hobby knife for about 20 min. for each side. Then I did some clean up (w. a very small pointed hobby knife) of the "flashing" that was left. I will take some photos of the back side of it tomorrow for you.
As for the for the front end mounts: If you look at the photo without the bumper you'll see that the top grill part is black. -That is the part that is removable. the bottom white part is permanently glued to the rest of the front end. in the first picture of the holes of the grill you can see a white rectangular piece of styrene -half visible from behind the upper "half grill" This styrene is glued there and receives the 2 screws you see in the "bumper less" photo. I hope that explains it... Take care ...Mark

BTW spankrjs The shims are allready coming from calandra - I just googled them & found them right away but I didn't even think to look for them at Tower and that's where the bearings are coming from?! and it looks like you've read the same three spd rebuild tutorial
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  #33  
Old 02-25-2009, 10:36 AM
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Yes sir, those tutorials are great

The only place I dont have bearings is where the one manual says you have to machine and press stuff apart. I figure if it is supported by bearings everywhere else.......

I do wish I could find some seals for the front and rear outputs. Thats the only place all my trannies leak from, mainly the front 'cause its lower.
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  #34  
Old 02-26-2009, 08:40 PM
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Hey Tom sorry, I'm a day behind, here is the pic of the grill from the "not so pretty" inside. I've made some progress on the battery/servo tray. I'm taking some pictures right now... Mark
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  #35  
Old 02-26-2009, 11:49 PM
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Well..., since I lowered the body and want a cab with a full depth floor in it - I can't keep the battery in the stock location I couldn't put it up front since I want to have the space for a scale V-8. Lengthwise toward the back wouldn't do because it's too long and the chassis too short (behind the plastic servo box/hump) I discovered that a 7.2 hump back battery (old crappy one I had around) just fits across the chassis between the shock towers. and used Associated's RC-10 battery cups on a black piece of styrene I cut out. I had to hack some of the Bruiser's box away (pics coming) and I hacked a bit off the Battery servo box as well, it'll get it's holes filled in so it won't look as bad as it does in the photos. I hope the photos explain most of what was done... Take care...Mark
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  #36  
Old 02-27-2009, 01:25 AM
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Well losing detail is never a good thing I had to sacrifice the Bruiser's box for the cab's interior The batteries, however can now be replaced with out removing the body by removing just one body clip. Having been into mixed media model building since I was in my teens(not so much in the last decade or more) I realize that materials generally don't scale down accurately eg. a wallet made out of leather may not look accurate made out of leather in 1/18th scale. Instead it may look more accurate made out of construction paper. To that end when I was 18, I came up with a technique for making something look like cloth but be actually totally rigid. Now while not exactly ground breaking now, at the time I never knew that anything like the magazine "Fine Scale Modeler" even existed. So the first couple of pics are of the Bruiser's bed and???..... the first medievil knight to grace the scale 4x4 forum? Just to show what's possible w a bed cover. It'll be mounted with magnets for quick removal. I will give you a step by step when I get there......Take care... Mark

BTW The cape was never finished being mounted - both in scale and in actuality.
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  #37  
Old 02-27-2009, 09:17 PM
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growing up I always wanted a bruiser but they were to much money and now that ive seen alot of differant styles of RCs ive come to the conclusion that they are worth every cent and then some.
nice job
keep up the good work
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  #38  
Old 03-04-2009, 02:21 AM
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Thanks renny! Here are some tires I bought off of Ebay out of Korea. They are Bruiser look alikes but the are much softer! In the following pics the hard bruiser tire is the 1st photo on the left and the New softer tire from "Road & Racing*" on the right. Both tires have a ten pound weight balanced on them and you can see how much more flex is in the new tire . In fact when the soft tire wasn't mounted & holding air, it would fold right in half under the weight - unlike the bruiser tire that's just... there...
Next are some before and after photos where you can see how the new tires more realistically flatten out at the bottom. They should give way more traction than the stock tires in the dirt!? As you can see I started cutting the doors out... won't be long before I start on the floor of the cab... Take care ...Mark
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  #39  
Old 03-04-2009, 06:13 AM
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Looks much better with the body drop

I don't know why they thought blacking out the light buckets was a good idea
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  #40  
Old 03-09-2009, 01:45 PM
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Quote: I don't know why they thought blacking out the light buckets was a good idea
Yeah Tamiya's weird sometimes

I'm one step closer to getting my chassis powder coated! I have to finish the floor of the cab so I can figure out the downward facing body mounts. Since I can't use the Tamiya "nerf bars" (show only? - rock sliders) I will eventually make some functional, chassis mounted rock sliders -visually keeping with the whole stock Bruiser look. The area on the sliders, close to the chassis, will receive the body mounts. Then I can concentrate my work on the cab without needing to test fit to the chassis. -Good time to send the chassis away for painting!

Here are a couple of photos of the lower door area after cutting the door out and of the lower jam area built up. I only did the lower part first so I could attach the bed section and test fit as I went. I'm working on the floor now I will post pics of that as I' get finished.... Take care ...Mark
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  #41  
Old 03-10-2009, 10:10 AM
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Great job. I can't wait to see more...
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  #42  
Old 03-10-2009, 11:58 PM
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Here's a few progress shots... A few non scale disclaimers: I won't be detailing the back of the cab as all I want is the separation between the box and cab and it won't be visible. The transmission tunnel hump in the floor had to be wide enough to accommodate Tamiya's transmission and I boxed the area under the door sill that is in reality only a couple of layers of sheet metal thick. I did this because it makes the floor strong enough for me to use as a body mount and the box section is a chase through which to run wire from the head lights to the the bed/rear chassis. The 3/4 front view in the pics shows the boxed lower section - it won't be visible there because it will be covered by the inner fender detail. The second to last photo shows the 1/4 inch spacer between the front upper shock mounts and the chassis -to bring the shocks toward the tires a bit. Now compared to an early pic of the all black body, the shocks show up better when veiwed at a 3/4 front angle. The floor height is as low as I could have gone but I think it's pretty much spot on. Compared to the 1:1 in the last photo.... Take care ...Mark
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  #43  
Old 03-11-2009, 12:22 AM
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looking pretty good, nice styrene work.
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  #44  
Old 03-11-2009, 02:52 AM
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Very realistic I like it keep us posted please.
Greg
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  #45  
Old 03-11-2009, 04:19 AM
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great work

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