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Big Rigs, Multi axle, & Tracked Vehicles The place for "Semi" talk!
Tamiya and Wedico Tractor trailers!
Tamiya and other brand R/C Tanks and Tracked vehicles. And any vehicle with more than 2 axles; 6x6, 8x8, 10x10, etc!


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  #46  
Old 01-15-2018, 06:00 PM
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Wombii Wombii is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hummer View Post
tøft! gøy og se crewcab som model. veldig bra detalj arbeid og ombygging av hytte
har bytta mye bakfjærer på sånne 4x4
Takk skal du ha! Hummerne dine har mye av skylda for at jeg begynte med skala-rc for et tiår siden.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoryueva02 View Post
Nice Project

I'm building one myself too but in different format. It is a Freight-liner Truck.
Thank you! Did you find a good ESC?

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Originally Posted by offroadace View Post
Here is information regarding a custom Arduino. Very interesting read and looks really cool and already configured for the most part. A feidn of mine gave me 2 of these. Jsut need to test them out and figure how I can use them in the RV or maybe my next model.
RCGroups
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ght-Controller
The OSL controller is a very interesting project. Looks like it should work well for basic functions out of the box. I think some of my code can be useful to them for speeding it up and adding some functionality for scale trucks.

Regarding the cheap LED kits: My controller started out as a way to replace the Tamiya TLU-02 for controlling the TLU-01 light kit (There should be an old D90 thread in my profile). I wonder if it's possible to "hack" into the other cheap light kits too? It would certainly simplify the LED connections.

-----

I've been stuck on trying to figure out how to make these LED-ring brake lights. The total diameter needs to be about 7-8mm (5/16" ?). Thought about using fibre optics between two styrene tubes, but the tube walls are too thick for it to look right. I'm not even sure if the light in the middle is supposed to do anything.




Decided to fix something else. Literally hacking in a number plate light on the left tail light cluster.




Destroyed the first LED trying to solder leads to it. The solder pads are pretty tiny and fragile.




Got to this stage all glued in before realizing I destroyed the first LED. For size comparison, that's a 3mm LED and a standard 1/4 watt resistor.




Some sanding should diffuse the light a bit more, but it's doing the job.

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  #47  
Old 01-16-2018, 09:15 PM
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Very slick way to hide a plate light!

Would some telescopic antenna sections work with fiberoptic for you ring tail lights?
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  #48  
Old 01-20-2018, 06:34 PM
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Great news! Egenes, the Norwegian importer and builder of Rosenbauer fire trucks answered some questions I had, and it turns out that the light in the middle of the LED ring is actually a turn signal. Thank you for taking the time to answer fan mail!

Quote:
Originally Posted by frizzen View Post
Would some telescopic antenna sections work with fiberoptic for you ring tail lights?
I like that idea. I have at least one broken antenna somewhere, but have no idea where it could be, so I did some more experimenting with styrene.

I got my hands on some tiny drill bits and I stripped an optical audio cable to find a nice 1mm fiber. The Evergreen styrene tubes are telescoping in odd or even product numbers, but they leave a microscopic air gap between them. That gap is perfect for guiding the drill. Two tubes gives me a combined wall thickness of about 2mm and room for a 5mm LED in the middle.



First prototype with 8 light dots:



Second prototype with 12 dots:

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  #49  
Old 02-24-2018, 02:50 PM
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Small update:
This truck needs the old style H4 headlight units instead of the new shiny ones. As far as I can tell, the large main chamber contains low beam and high beam headlights. Upper center is side light / parking lights. Lower center and upper right is turn signal. Lower right is side marker. I also need to add a piece of acrylic over the upper right chambers.






Self-adhesive aluminium tape as reflector.



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  #50  
Old 02-25-2018, 05:25 AM
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Impressive build, both on the styrene work and the electronics. I was just trying to hook up some leds for my bv206 headlights and my soldering looks nothing like yours, and that's not even using any electronics
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  #51  
Old 02-25-2018, 03:08 PM
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Thank you

If you're using normal LEDs with legs I highly recommend using dupont connectors (similar to servo connectors) instead of soldering. The 2 pin female housing is perfect for a 5mm LED. You can even plug resistors into them.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Dupo...Tool-Tutorial/
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  #52  
Old 02-25-2018, 07:20 PM
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Wow, this just keeps getting better and better.

This is going to be one af the top builds when you finish.
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  #53  
Old 05-28-2018, 09:02 PM
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2019 update:

This paint is not consistent between production batches. I now have cans from 3 batches, and they all have slightly different colors. The newer cans are easier to work with though. They work fine with Tamiya primer, giving a semi-gloss finish. They can give a perfect gloss on smaller areas, but the paint is too thick and dries too quick to do wet coats on large areas without the paint pooling or running. The advantage of the thick paint is that it covers up imperfections nicely, like a filling primer. I can not recommend it for modelling use.

--------------------
Original post:

Sorry, I forgot to post the paint update here. I'll quote myself from another forum for the boring parts :

Quote:
Originally Posted by wombii
Spring is here and the cab is yellow! I love this color. It changes between a pale chicken yellow and rich yellow and almost lime green depending on the light, but mostly looks like a tennis ball. It is also impossible to accurately capture on camera.

This specific paint is really difficult to get a good result with. I've used a full can just trying to get comfortable with it, spraying all the leftover body parts. The paint is quite thick, the nozzle spray pattern is messy, and it dries very fast. The spray distance difference between runny and dust that won't stick is about 2 inches. The result when you get it right is amazing though. It's much thicker than Tamiya spray paint, and fills small scratches. Nice for this project, maybe not for smaller plastic models.

Motip acrylic RAL 1016, NCS 0362-G82Y, sulfur yellow. Click image to view can.


The manufacturer and importer recommends the clear Motip plastic primer. I decided to make it difficult for myself by wanting to use gray Tamiya primer because of all the steps of priming, sanding and filling on the cab.

Some of my test pieces using the Tamiya primer had some subtle crazing show up after a few days. It only affected the finish. I could still hit it with a hammer and screw driver without any cracking or flaking. I tested using little primer, a lot of primer and different drying times, without much difference. A Fresh thick layer of primer actually gave a smoother finish, but showed no difference in crazing after a few days.

The paint grips to itself without issues. Painting over itself after a few days of curing shows no negative effects.
Note that spraying directly on unprimed body parts seems to be safe, but it can be scraped off from sharp edges.

Crazing with Tamiya primer after first paint coats.


Thin layers are safe to touch after about 15 seconds. The finished paint job is safe to touch softly after 15 minutes, but can still be marked with a nail for a while. It can be polished after 2 hours. 95% of the smell goes away in the first 24 hours.

My final method is as follows:
- Prime and let cure for a week
- Start painting with thin dry layers, waiting 10-15 minutes between each layer. Go slightly thicker and wetter with the later layers. 4-5 layers in total.
- Let it the paint sit for 4 days. Wetsand it smooth with 1200. This will remove any crazing. (I didn't have any crazing when doing the cab, but a very rough finish from the dry layers.)
- Repeat the painting, starting thinner, finishing with a layer that is as wet and thick as possible without any running. The paint should not react to itself, and won't craze.
Shiny roof


Shiny left side


Shiny right side


On the truck



Sun visor modification:

Sun visor extra lights and marker lights. 3x 2835 warm white and 4x 3528 neutral white LEDs.




Built a small casing around the side marker lights. Trying to keep the wires as tidy as possible. I may need to paint them black.


---

Now to the real news:

As far as I can tell, the front winch / monitor / rescue platform mount is mounted to the chassis through the lower grille on the real thing. To replicate that directly I would have to do some advanced metal work, and I don't have the skills or setup to do that. I'll do what I can with styrene and hope it's strong enough for some light winching. With the bumper raised by 10mm on the cab mount the lower mounting holes are exposed, and can be used as anchor points for some extra strength. I drilled a set of holes in the middle of the cab mount plate and screwed in a set of brass hex spacers.




The new holes work as both mounting holes for the bumper itself and the winch platform.




The two things at the bottom are removable to hide the screw holes as much as possible.




I don't like that the lower screws are visible, but they're needed for strength. Hopefully they'll be less prominent when it's all painted black.




The lower grille is moved out from the truck, like the real thing. I believe that's how they make room to mount the platform to the chassis. The winch is a 1:10 crawler winch that is almost the perfect size.




I had to make some adjustments to the width of the RM8E water cannon body to fit it next to the winch, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I don't think I'll put servos on it because the front is a bit cramped, but it is fully articulated.



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Last edited by Wombii : 05-03-2019 at 08:15 PM.
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  #54  
Old 05-29-2018, 03:11 AM
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WOW

I have no idea how missed this build,Very nice work .

keep up the good work Im defiantly subscribed to this one.
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  #55  
Old 05-30-2018, 10:50 AM
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Thanks

Second attempt at making headlight guards. My 30w soldering iron struggled with heating that 1,5mm copper wire. Not sure how to mount them on the truck though.

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  #56  
Old 05-31-2018, 05:34 PM
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After hours of trying to make functional scale accurate clips that doesn't break, I noticed the guards were too short. Fortunately they were also a bit too wide, so I could fix it by adjusting the corners. While I was in there with the soldering iron I also soldered on some pins so I can give up on the clips.




Primed and ready for painting in what will inevitably be the wrong shade of gray. (I'll test TS-63 nato black first, but TS-82 rubber black might be better)

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  #57  
Old 06-07-2018, 10:46 AM
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I sprayed the bumper with TS-63 Nato black while painting some other body parts with TS-29 semi gloss black. Turns out bringing out two cans of different blacks is a bad idea. This is a picture of the bumper accidentally painted black on the third coat.





After a few extra coats of Nato black, this is the result. In certain lighting conditions it looks green, and it's a bit too dark.





Currently respraying with TS-82 Rubber black, and it's looking much better. Left is TS-63, right is TS-82. It's very hard to tell them apart in real life without a direct comparison like this, but the TS-82 has a slight hint of blue and looks like slightly faded matte black plastic.

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  #58  
Old 06-07-2018, 08:35 PM
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Front of the cab sprayed TS-29 semi gloss black.




I don't have an airbrush, and I didn't want to risk any leakage around the masking with a spray can, so I decided to try hand painting the door handles and red stripes with a brush and Tamiya acrylics. Note to future self: Just go with the masking and spraying. Brushing is too much work, you'll have to mask anyway, and the paint will wick under the tape edges if you thin it enough, leaving jagged edges.




End result looks pretty good though

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  #59  
Old 06-25-2018, 09:07 PM
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Reworking the fenders, so I get a second attempt at getting the rear steps right.





Torture! I've tried so many times to find a simple way to make the steps, but none of them looked convincing. This is a weeks work, so this better end up looking perfect.



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  #60  
Old 07-05-2018, 07:18 PM
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Just enough left over for the extra hanging front steps.




The older truck doesn't have this bump. I think they're turn signals? The whole "shelf" should ideally be removed on the driver's side, but I've decided to leave it for the sake of structural integrity.




I've tested many ways of mounting the fender sections. I made a mounting system holding it with magnets from the top, but it ultimately wasn't stiff enough. Finally ended up removing most of what I did earlier and simplified it. A plate on the left side, a box for electronics on the right side. Mounts to the chassis rails with 2 screws.






One of the most difficult tasks is making this stuff in a way that physically possible to mount it. Here's my solution for removing the rear steps to access the screws for mounting the fenders to the chassis.








Foldable ladder for the back.



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