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Big Rigs, Multi axle, & Tracked Vehicles The place for "Semi" talk!
Tamiya and Wedico Tractor trailers!
Tamiya and other brand R/C Tanks and Tracked vehicles. And any vehicle with more than 2 axles; 6x6, 8x8, 10x10, etc!


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  #61  
Old 07-08-2018, 02:04 AM
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2redrovers 2redrovers is offline
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Originally Posted by Wombii View Post
Reworking the fenders, so I get a second attempt at getting the rear steps right.





Torture! I've tried so many times to find a simple way to make the steps, but none of them looked convincing. This is a weeks work, so this better end up looking perfect.



I just couldn't let that go by without saying dude, that is awesomeness to the n'th degree squared!!

You're goin to be too scared to drive it when its done .. keep it up
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  #62  
Old 09-22-2018, 10:02 PM
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I'm definitely going to be scared of driving it, but I'm even more worried about flooding the insides with water when I get the water cannon working.

Sorry for the long break. I haven't really had the energy to write up the documentation or actually do much work.

Lift mechanism for the telescopic floodlight mast. It technically works, but it could use some refinement, and I'm not sure how to mount it so that I can do maintenance on it later. I've been trying to figure out the best way to design the mechanism for this for more than a year. There's not much room and I want it to extend as high as possible. I would rather have a static prop than a telescopic mast that barely reaches above the roof. This version uses a micro servo modified for continuous rotation with physical microswitches and diodes cutting off power to the servo motor to stop at top and bottom. The rack and pinion is a drive belt harvested from an old RC car.








One set of top mounted floodlights is done. Again using the 2835 LEDs (and again broke a couple while soldering) mounted in a plastic case that pops into the mounts. Round tube through a round hole is a pretty simple way to mount stuff, as it turns out. Why do I not have a 3D printer yet? I deeply hate making multiples of something. Just 4 more to go though.






Started on the water level indicator lights for the middle pump module.




Took out the mysterious but cheap fingernail tool again and scribed the last shutter.




Simple mounting for the plates that the taillights are mounted on. I think I need a truck dictionary to figure out what everything is called. They'll probably be glued in eventually.




Roughly started on the cab interior to find out where to hide the wiring. Fortunately the 1:1 P crew cab also has the engine in the middle of it, so I can make it reasonably accurate. I'm planning to hide the ESC under the rear bench. I'm hoping heat won't be an issue. I can't do much more work until I've figured out the wiring for the middle section.






The middle module is where I'm planning to fit the battery, a huge pump, ESC for the pump, the BEC for the LEDs and micro servos, a voltage step up module, some switches and a distribution point for most of the wiring. I'm sure it's a brilliant idea to place a lipo battery and lots of sensitive electronics in the same compartment as a high pressure pump.

I found some 12v 30A switches that can hopefully survive the current. From right to left: Battery master switch, switch for all the extra electronics like arduino, lights and microservos and a master switch for the high pressure pump system.
Building a small enclosure for them that will let me access the wiring behind them.





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  #63  
Old 09-23-2018, 10:13 AM
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I hear ya.. I just updated one of my 1:1 car threads on another forum after about 3wks... took over an hour to get it all down and too much brain.

This however was worth the effort.. this truck is seriously epic. I don't understand how you contol all the functions with sooo much detail included in the build but the end will be worthwhile definitely. Oh and hopefully without becoming a molten pool of drowned lights and flashing things (never happen! We have much faith in your skills )
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  #64  
Old 09-23-2018, 05:38 PM
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Wow.
I love the light masts, even if it's not as tall as you wanted, they look great and scale that's still quite a bit higher.

If you're going to run it as an actual pumper, i'd definately plan to bulkhead off the water compartment instead of mixing electronics with it. Also i'd make sure any passthrough wiring through the water compartment has enough slack for driploops, wires routed above water lines and all that.
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  #65  
Old 09-24-2018, 03:15 PM
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Thank you for the term "driploop". The plan is to build a removable 1/2 gallon water tank (or use a large airplane fuel tank) in the large tank section. The tank will sit above the frame rails, with the outlet running down and back up to the pump, like a drip loop. All the wires will run along the frame rails under the tank, but their connections are above the frame. With the truck being so long I may have to take some extra precautions for some of them though. I think I'll make a shield around the main pump to protect the battery wires and look into making some drainage holes. I'm mostly worrird about the water cannon on the roof though. There is no way to keep the cab roof dry, so I'll have to protect the electrics below the dashboard and front lights. The wires to the sun visor lights are a definite weak spot though. I'm always thankful if you point out mistakes I'm making on any of this.
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  #66  
Old 09-24-2018, 05:11 PM
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That sounds pretty good.
You might want to check that your pump can self prime that way. I know some have issues if they have trapped air in the lines or don't have a positive head pressure at the pump inlet.

I'd probably also hit the electrical connectors near it with something like silicone grease. Maybe put a shroud around the line to the roof cannon that helps flow any leakage safely overboard below the frame

Also for storage, you're going to want to make sure you have a way to drain the water as much as possible so it can all dry.

You may really want to look into seeing if there's a way to put some type of baffles in the water tank. Full or empty it rides great and preditcable, but around half full the water will move a LOT and will try to roll the truck when cornering.
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  #67  
Old 09-26-2018, 12:51 PM
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Maybe put a shroud around the line to the roof cannon that helps flow any leakage safely overboard below the frame
Thank you for that one. It never actually occurred to me that the water will drip along the water line back down to the pump. I've been too focused on preventing issues everywhere else. I'll need to do something about that.

The baffles are actually the main reason I want to build my own tank. The center of gravity will be high enough as it is, so it will probably roll over in the first turn if I use a large open tank. I was thinking a grid of plates with openings along the bottom.

For draining and ventilation I was thinking of those screw cork tops from juice cartons. They're watertight and I believe some of them are made of styrene, so it's easy to glue. I'll also use a smaller secondary pump for filling and draining the tank.

The main pump is a variant of this: (youtube link to pump)
without the pressure sensor. It's self priming with more flow than a gear pump and more pressure than a centrifugal pump, but it's a little anemic on 7,2v.
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  #68  
Old 09-26-2018, 08:43 PM
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Thought popped into my head as I read about baffles. If you did go for an off the shelf tank that has no internal baffle, would it work if you could jam a block of foam sponge or other open weave nylon mesh for example, to act like the foam in racing fuel cells? The course, springy type aquarium filter might work or maybe the nylon mesh shopping bags /onion bags?

Would depend how your plumbing went in the tank I guess but if it worked to slow or stop the sloshing effect, maybe it could make life easier for you so you don't have to build a tank.
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  #69  
Old 09-26-2018, 08:59 PM
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That's worth looking into. I like making life easier. I'd probably have to remove it after running to dry it out though, but I'll have to open the tank for drying anyway.
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  #70  
Old 11-09-2018, 03:33 PM
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First test drive:


Had to start with the dashboard modifications to figure out how many resistors I need on the front resistor board. Added some switches and backlighting for the reverse cam display and instrument panel. Green LEDs for turn signals.








Final design for the front resistor board.



Started working on the floodlights for the telescopic light mast. A lot of guesstimation based on photos to get the dimensions and angles right, but I feel it's pretty close. Mostly 1mm styrene. 5730 neutral white LED soldered to metal strips in the hope that they will move some of the heat to the outside.



Of course one broke when bending the metal strips







I swear I tested them all before filling them with CA glue! Only tested at low power though. Turns out that when tested at full power for more than a minute one of them started blinking. Most likely damage from soldering. Always fun to carve out fully cured glue.



I was hoping to run them at 60mA each, but I'll stick below 40 as I'm a bit concerned about heat buildup and don't feel like replacing any more LEDs in them for the next decade. I think they're bright enough anyway. (This photo is in a dark room)
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  #71  
Old 11-09-2018, 06:07 PM
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It lives!! And it looks damn fine doing so too. Sucks about the led in the mast but even on reduced power it looks impressive. Awesome details as usual.
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  #72  
Old 11-10-2018, 06:51 PM
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It's still bright enough to serve as a desk lamp, so I'm not really complaining
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  #73  
Old 11-10-2018, 08:53 PM
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See it's not a shelf queen... its a fancy desk lamp
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  #74  
Old 11-11-2018, 08:20 PM
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Achievement unlocked: Remote controlled desk lamp:
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  #75  
Old 11-11-2018, 08:52 PM
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Wow...thatís some pretty slick work! awesome!
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