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Scale 1.55's Scale trucks that use 1.55" fitting tires and similar. Approx 1/10th scalers with wheels smaller than 1.9".


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  #16  
Old 01-20-2017, 12:17 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Thanks Badboy! For me it is about ease of modifying the width, and you can cut off the steering parts to make it a rear axle. Or you can keep them and lock in place with small rods, but I prefer it to be knuckle-less in the rear. Back when I did the escort axle, they made it possible to buy the pieces separately and it came out not very expensive since I only needed the axle halves, gear and pinion and bearings. I modded wraith axle shafts to fit.

I also like the fact they are small diameter and small pumpkin, I like how they look more proportional. The multiple holes does make them look a bit weird but I'm ok with that and I'll buff the extra ones off once I am all set with mounting suspension and other stuff.

As for reliability and strenth I have not used them a lot yet so unsure how tough they are. I am not too worried for scale stuff though since I am not going to do huge jumps or run huge tires and big motors.

Last edited by Frederik : 01-20-2017 at 05:03 PM.
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2017, 10:36 AM
youngDUMP youngDUMP is offline
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The build looks great. I too am a fan of the round headlights my 83 model 1:1 has the grill and circle light conversion and I wouldn't have it any other way


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  #18  
Old 02-16-2018, 07:05 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Originally Posted by youngDUMP View Post
The build looks great. I too am a fan of the round headlights my 83 model 1:1 has the grill and circle light conversion and I wouldn't have it any other way[/IMG]


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Wow that's some nice and fat tires!! Thanks for the comment, I somehow missed your reply and forgot about the thread since photobucket fubar'd all pics in my threads.


I did some work on trying to make a 4-link system with my gathered parts, still trying to find the right geometry and lengths to fit with the transfer case and tranny, and have correct angles and lengths on the driveshafts.

But also in the meantime I acquired a used sawback chassis, it was well used and in pretty rough shape when I got it, but I tweaked it quite a bit, straightened the leaf springs, added a second leaf to the rears and added actual shocks I had (losi in the front and simple tamiya ones in the rear) with lightweight oil just keep the bounce in control. I kind of liked how smooth the flex was without shocks but on an actual run it would be too bouncy and wobbly I think! Also got some used SDI tires and wheels locally, I think it all goes pretty good together.










It has cantilever rear setup, it was there initially, but rigged in a way it would either be loose on the chassis holes to avoid friction, or too tight and prevent smooth movement. I put lock nuts on both sides of the chassis rails to keep the pivot area with play, but have a solid mount on the chassis. I'll need to put a mount to hold the bed a bit higher than sitting on the rails, or arrange the cantilever differently so it does not contact the bed (will probably do the latter).




I have a slight problem with the front since I flipped the C hubs upside down to get more caster. The steering linkage now rubs on the leaf. Anybody have an easy solution for that? Mounting the bar under the leaf does not seems like a good idea (would hit stuff), and mounting the bar much higher and spacers on the bolts would add quite some lever to the small steering bolts...




And a flex shot before I fixed the rear cantilever setup, and only one leaf on the rear. It was flexing nicely but was too soft in the rear, even without all the stuff added to the chassis (no electronics, no motor).





Tonight I also made a small vid of a quick snow run around the house, lighting is bad since it was dark, but nicer videos will come in the future Shot with iPhone in slowmo mode, and slowed down to 55%. This truck is the first time for me scale driving tiny trucks and I love it already!


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  #19  
Old 02-17-2018, 10:11 AM
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350TacoZilla 350TacoZilla is offline
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What if you swap the knuckle around left to right and run the tie rods behind the axle? You would then either have to get servo spun around or make a new steering arm that ran across top of knuckle and tied in to stock point and the top knuckle screw.
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  #20  
Old 02-17-2018, 10:46 AM
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I dont think that running the tie rod behind is the answer , the drive shaft will be in the way,the only way,as i see it,is to place spacers under the ball ends to get it over the leaf spring.It will give some more leverage on the spindle but if you make it as wide as you can and tighten it enough i dont think it will be a problem,it is not like these cars are going 800 mph.
Btw. you got the stance just right
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  #21  
Old 02-17-2018, 05:49 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Thanks guys for chiming in, I kept looking and found out the sawback actually has the link mounted under normally, kind of in the way of rocks etc, so people mod it to put it on top of the knuckle, and just mod the plastic rod ends so they don't bind on the leaf.. I think I'll try shimming it under the link to make it clear. Also need to work on the servo position a bit anyways.

In the rear the cantilever interferes with the bed when compressed... so I'll need to adjust that since I want the bed to sit low directly on the chassis rails.

I did another video today with daylight, I'll post it soon!
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  #22  
Old 02-17-2018, 06:22 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Here is a second video, much nicer image quality in the daylight. My 6 yo son was driving, I was filming. He is a pretty good driver for having driven only a handful of times, he will be a good scale driver for when I want to make scale movies

First half of the movie is a normal video slowed down 55% and the second is in the slowmo mode on iPhone with I believe 120 image per second, slowed down to 55% also. Looks much smoother when you slow down and the original video has more frame per second.


Last edited by Frederik : 02-18-2018 at 08:12 PM.
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  #23  
Old 02-18-2018, 04:39 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Wow...! Hey Fred...truck looks and runs awesome! I'm not familiar in any way with the sawback, but looks like you have gotten it working right!
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  #24  
Old 02-18-2018, 08:15 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Originally Posted by Trini2DBone View Post
Wow...! Hey Fred...truck looks and runs awesome! I'm not familiar in any way with the sawback, but looks like you have gotten it working right!
Hey Thanks Preston! I did not know anything about the sawback either until I scored this chassis for pretty cheap. Now I need to make one for my son so we can drive together! Already have a body, axles, tires, tranny, just need to make a quick chassis. I guess he's the one who will end up with the custom chassis lol

This is my first scale truck and I love the slow technical driving, there is lots of snow right now and plenty of weird shapes of snow to climb on, lots of fun. But a bit cold on the fingers lol!

I updated the video above, the new version starts with the nicer smooth slomo mode, then the part I recorded in normal mode is at full speed.
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  #25  
Old 12-13-2019, 07:49 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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I made some changes mainly to the front grille. Started with trimming the lower part as well as the holes in the grille to replace with a real one, instead of the molded one.







I used a folder thingy from Ikea I bought for exactly that, making grilles Here it is, with Ikea part number in case you like it. The grille looks nice and is painted silver already.









Then I painted it all semi gloss black but did not quite like it since the details would disappear too much, so I added silver at the grille parts.






But it looked too clean so I did my first ever weathering, with brown testers paint mixed with some kind of odourless thinner my girlfriend had in her crafts supply. I had to work fast because it would soften the silver and the black paint, would become tacky and stick to the towel if I rubbed. So I just applied and removed excess pretty fast. Quite happy with the result, though I should add some more to the black and make it dirtier.






I also added the rear tailgate I had since the beginning but never made fit. Now I need to shorten the chassis a bit and find a way to attach the body with something other than duct tape





Thanks for looking!
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  #26  
Old 12-13-2019, 08:16 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Wow! Nice work Fred ! Love the mesh on the grille! Weathering looks spot on!
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Old 12-13-2019, 08:21 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Originally Posted by Trini2DBone View Post
Wow! Nice work Fred ! Love the mesh on the grille! Weathering looks spot on!
Thanks Preston! I am starting to like painting I was a bit afraid of it since it is so unknown to me, but I kind of like it! I need to find some water based white spray paint for the Escort, to make sure the body does not become brittle. Looks to be hard to find!
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  #28  
Old 12-15-2019, 08:06 AM
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Hey, I remember you lol

I have not seen many Sawback's, wonder why as they seems to be a great chassis, and who donęt like leaf springs???

Regarding the steering rod, you could move it above the leaf spring and some spacers under the rod ends to lift them.
Should be enough space for the link from servo as well.
You may have to add a spacer between those linkages to make them clear eachother.
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  #29  
Old 12-15-2019, 09:35 AM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Originally Posted by caprinut View Post
Hey, I remember you lol

I have not seen many Sawback's, wonder why as they seems to be a great chassis, and who donęt like leaf springs???

Regarding the steering rod, you could move it above the leaf spring and some spacers under the rod ends to lift them.
Should be enough space for the link from servo as well.
You may have to add a spacer between those linkages to make them clear eachother.
Hey caprinut! Yeah I bought this chassis in poor shape for pretty cheap, but I put some love into it and now it is back in operation. It articulates pretty good with the leaf springs too. No shocks in the back lol so it is a bit bouncy.

I did try to mount the steering rod above the leaf spring at some point, but I don't quite remember what did not work though lol Given the bar is smaller than the rod ends, it tends to catch on the leaf springs when I steer and the link is near the leaf (in a flex situation). I'll play with it again a bit to see if I can make that work better, fine tuning like you suggested.
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  #30  
Old 12-16-2019, 11:44 AM
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350TacoZilla 350TacoZilla is offline
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Man I love the sawback chassis under the hilux body. I had seen a few of them when the sawback first came out but then they started making them with 4 link and the hilux thing never caught on, not sure if people wanted them to be more rock crawlerish or what.

If I ever get my grubby mitts on a roller chassis it will be getting a hilux body lol. I also always preferred the 79-81 round headlight front end, I have had few of the 1:1 (79,81&82) and the round is just a happier look to me if that makes sense.
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