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  #31  
Old 11-18-2015, 12:05 PM
moshe_gadid moshe_gadid is offline
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Thank you for shearing
Your build is very intresting
enjoy creating.
cheers
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  #32  
Old 11-19-2015, 10:25 AM
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outcastrc outcastrc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteinHDan View Post
I got some PMs about sharing the files and I was planning on doing that at the end of the build, but here is the plans as of today:



http://d1t2tbzmskak12.cloudfront.net...age_4 v192.f3d (11MB)

Just download the free Autodesk Fusion 360 and then upload this file into that program. Then you can export any part to STL (for 3D printing) or I've also added the CAM setup for CNC cuts of some of the parts. And you can export the parts to other formats.

See the Autodesk Fusion 360 tutorials on YouTube for more info on how to use the program.

I'll post more links as the plans progress.


Stein :-)
Totally awesome that your sharing the files on this. You've put a lot of effort into it and it shows. I'll definitely build one of these when I can find some time.
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  #33  
Old 11-22-2015, 03:05 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Thanks, Outcastrc! :-)


I think that would be very cool if you or someone else made a version too. Keep us updated! :-)


Best regards,
Stein
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  #34  
Old 11-23-2015, 02:46 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Stepping back a few steps and mounting the new slip ring, adding PTFE protective tubing to the drive motor wires and mounting the angle bars that hold the upper structure in place.

The PTFE teflon tubing is this one:
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/111392849268





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  #35  
Old 11-23-2015, 03:07 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Default Mounting the boom

I'm going to try to use electric gear motors first. If that doesn't work out, I'll make the excavator hydraulic instead.

I'm using some quite powerful gear motors for all of the joints.
Ebay link:
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/221515025957

These are 10 rpm 320 kg / cm stall torque motors. Two in parallel should produce 640 kg / cm.




The two motors mount to the upper structure with 8 M5 countersunk bolts.






The boom itself is constructed with two milled 6mm aluminum profiles. At the end, another gear motor is mounted with another 8 M5 countersunk bolts.

I bought the hubs on aliexpress:
- http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10mm-...922964248.html












I'm using gas springs where the hydraulic cylinders would normally go.
The gas springs functions in many interesting ways in this configuration:
- Equalize the weight of the arm, so that the gear motor only have to lift the payload
- Dampen sudden movements and protect the gear motor
- A sound that is similar to a hydraulic cylinder
- Visually resembles a hydraulic cylinder.




Item links:
- Gas springs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/181788326018
- Clevis: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161559757356
- Rod eyelet: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5mm-Female-T...-/181888111312




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  #36  
Old 11-23-2015, 03:14 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Default Stick

The stick consists of these parts:
- Sides in 3mm aluminum
- Hubs in 12mm aluminum
- Gear motor (similar to the previous ones)



Again, the gear motor is mounted with 8 M5 countersunk bolts.






Mounting the stick onto the boom:











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  #37  
Old 11-23-2015, 03:19 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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The bucket linkage is milled from 12mm aluminum. The gear motor is driving the bucket through these links, so they need to be strong.

The pins are M8 x 80mm pins bought here:
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291511678072



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  #38  
Old 11-23-2015, 03:29 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Default Bucket

I've tried to construct a bucket without welding. It looks pretty ok and feels strong even if I've just printed it in ABS for now. I'll mill these parts in 10mm aluminum shortly. But I just had to print one to see how it fit. I think it's a little wide, so I believe I will make it a 5-teeth one instead of a 6-teeth one.

The construction uses a center slice that is tapped with M3 thread. All the other parts just have a 3.18mm hole in them.

10 M3 60mm long countersunk bolts are then inserted from each side, and bolt into the threaded center slice.

Bolts are added to odd-number holes on the one side and even-number holes on the other side.

The good thing about this approach, is that the width of the bucket can easily be changed. It would also be super simple to create a sifting bucket.

















Borrowing the cab from a Bruder CAT 320 1/14 to see how it will look with a cab on:





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  #39  
Old 11-24-2015, 12:10 AM
sanayici sanayici is offline
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it's nice work . Waiting for the end .
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  #40  
Old 11-24-2015, 06:42 PM
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RCJEEPBUILDER RCJEEPBUILDER is offline
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Wow!! The bucket idea is fantastic, and for this to be all electric makes it an over the top build in my book. Keep up the good work
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5 ton of fun
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  #41  
Old 11-24-2015, 09:25 PM
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Excellent design on the bucket. Looking forward to the aluminum version.
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  #42  
Old 12-05-2015, 08:38 AM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Default Embedded PC

I am using a Raspberry Pi 2 model B as the embedded PC for this project.

The Raspberry Pi will control:
- The ESCs (speed controllers) for the seven gear motors via USB serial ports
- Individual lights via GPIO pins
- Engine sound via the 3.5mm audio jack
- Remote control via a USB wireless gamepad
- FPV from the CAB with the Raspberry Pi Camera
- Configuration, reprogramming and telemetry via a USB WiFi.

Amazon links:
- Raspberry Pi 2 Model B - 1GB RAM - 900MHz Quad-Core CPU
- Raspberry PI 5MP Camera Board Module





I'm using a 4GB SD memory card I had laying around. Looks very much like this one:
- Kingston 4GB microSDHC Class 10


I downloaded the Raspbian (Debian) image on my computer from here:
- http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/
and installed it on the SD card as described on that download page.

Then I connected it to a monitor, mouse and keyboard and powered it up. In the setup menu, I selected:
- Terminal only (no graphical GUI)
- Enable camera
- Enable ssh
- Disable serial port console

This completes the setup and the Raspberry is now running with the operating system I want.
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  #43  
Old 12-05-2015, 11:04 AM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Default WiFi

I'm adding WiFi because I want to use it for easy programming and for the FPV video link.

It's a good idea to use a very standard WiFi adapter, for example any adapter with a RealTek chipset, like this one:
- 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size
because that is known to work well.

Just plug it into the Raspberry PI, and then add the name of your WiFi network and the password:

1. Run this command: sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces
2. Edit the file so that it looks like this:

Code:
auto lo
iface lo inet loopback

auto eth0
allow-hotplug eth0
iface eth0 inet manual

auto wlan0
allow-hotplug wlan0
iface wlan0 inet dhcp
wpa-conf /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
3. Save the file by pressing CTRL-O
4. Exit the editor by pressing CTRL-X

5. Run this command: sudo nano /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
6. Edit the file so that it looks like this:

Code:
ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev
update_config=1


network={
    ssid="TheNameOfYourNetwork"
    psk="YourPassword"
}

network={
    ssid="TheNameOfYourOtherNetworkIfAny"
    psk="YourPassword"
}
I'm typically adding both my home WiFi and my mobile phone Wifi HotSpot so that I can access the Raspberry wherever I might be.

7. Save the file by pressing CTRL-O
8. Exit the editor by pressing CTRL-X
9. Restart with command: sudo shutdown -r now

When the Raspberry has restarted, you can see if the WiFi connection was successful by running this command:
- ifconfig wlan0

This command should output something like this

Code:
[email protected] ~ $ ifconfig wlan0
wlan0     Link encap:Ethernet  HWaddr 00:0f:13:05:12:4e
          inet addr:192.168.0.107  Bcast:192.168.0.255  Mask:255.255.255.0
          UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST  MTU:1500  Metric:1
          RX packets:142807 errors:0 dropped:21 overruns:0 frame:0
          TX packets:21617 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
          collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000
          RX bytes:34717556 (33.1 MiB)  TX bytes:3289493 (3.1 MiB)
If you get an IP ("inet addr") here, then the WiFi has connected successfully. You can try the connection with a simple ping command:

- ping 8.8.8.8
(CTRL-C to exit)

Should output this if successful:

Code:
[email protected] ~ $ ping 8.8.8.8
PING 8.8.8.8 (8.8.8.8) 56(84) bytes of data.
64 bytes from 8.8.8.8: icmp_req=2 ttl=56 time=30.8 ms
64 bytes from 8.8.8.8: icmp_req=3 ttl=56 time=32.3 ms
64 bytes from 8.8.8.8: icmp_req=4 ttl=56 time=23.2 ms
^C
--- 8.8.8.8 ping statistics ---
4 packets transmitted, 3 received, 25% packet loss, time 3005ms
rtt min/avg/max/mdev = 23.209/28.797/32.357/4.000 ms
[email protected] ~ $

After I have set up the WiFi, I disconnect the monitor, keyboard and mouse, because I can now logon to the Raspberry Pi from my laptop by using SSH to the IP listed in the ifconfig output. I'm using the program Putty for the connection:
- http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~s.../download.html

but any SSH-client can be used to connect to the device.
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  #44  
Old 12-05-2015, 01:14 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Default Programming language

I'm doing most of my work in JavaScript these days. It's a good choice for doing anything, like web pages (all browsers run JavaScript), web server and web services (with node.js) and also robotics and RC with node.js.

To get Node.js (the runtime for JavaScript programs) onto the Raspberry, just run these two commands:

1. wget http://node-arm.herokuapp.com/node_latest_armhf.deb
2. sudo dpkg -i node_latest_armhf.deb

Now, you can write a JavaScript program in a text file (e.g. myprogram.js) and run it with node.js like this
- node myprogram.js
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  #45  
Old 12-05-2015, 01:29 PM
SteinHDan SteinHDan is offline
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Default Remote control

Any USB joystick or gamepad can be used for controls.

I'm using a very accurate gamepad from LogiTech. It also has a tiny receiver, which is good when the space is limited:
- Logitech F710

together with the npm joystick module:

Reading the gamepad is done like this:

Code:
var joystick = new (require('joystick'))(0, 3500, 350);

joystick.on('axis', function(event) {
    // Typical Event: { time: 22283520, value: 32636, number: 3, type: 'axis', id: 0 }
    var value = event.value / 32768; // Normalize to the range -1.0 - 0 - 1.0
    if (event.number === 3) { // 3 is left/right on the right pad
        steeringPos = value;
    }
});
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