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  #1  
Old 06-15-2004, 10:13 PM
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Jugg2Driver Jugg2Driver is offline
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These are my homemade links. I use Rocket City ball ends, 6/32 threaded rod, 6/32 brass tube, and steel brake line.
I first cut the threaded rod to the length I want the links to be.(be sure to take into consideration the length from the end of the rod to the center of the ball) Then I take a measurement of the distance there will be between the ends of each ball end, I then cut the brass rod and steel tube to that length. Next I install one ball end on the rod, slide the brass tube on then slide the brake line on and install the last ball end. Boom there you have a custome built rod end.

As you can see in that pic I used the stock mounts on the chassis for my link mounts.

But as for on the axle, the upper mounts I used the center hole on the rear of the axle for my upper mounts and I used the stock mounting locations for the stock links for my lower mounts. You can kinda see in this pic:


Once I get a better pic I will post it. If anything is unclear, just ask me!!


Matt
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  #2  
Old 06-16-2004, 08:57 AM
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everything is unclear :P
HIHIHI
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Old 06-16-2004, 12:05 PM
bbyrd22 bbyrd22 is offline
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I'd like to see what you did for you center link mount on the backside of the axle. I'm trying different options out, but I still get to much side to side movement. Thanks, Brian.
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Old 06-16-2004, 12:08 PM
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Byrd, look at that last pic! If you look at the center of the axle, you'll see where my upper links are mounted. Basically all I did, was to take a long screw and run in through that hole on the back then place a few nuts as spacers(to keep the ball ends from binding on the axle housing) and then used a locknut on the top to secure it!
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Old 06-16-2004, 12:47 PM
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This is a thread for instructions on constructing your very own 4-link rear suspension on your Tamiya XC chassis. Thoroughly look over this thread before beginning your project, as you don't want to make any mistakes.

_________________________________________

If you choose to set up the rear suspension in the same basic way that I have, with the rear shocks mounted on the lower links, you will need the following parts:

Associated 2.8" turnbuckles (lower links): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFDU8&P=7

Associated Steering turnbuckle (2 13/32", upper links): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX3149&P=7

DuBro 1/8" Nickel-plated collars: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD833&P=7

Traxxas assorted rod end set: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJ81&P=7

Traxxas assorted machine screw set: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJH84&P=7

Traxxas 3x20mm roundhead screws: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJG77&P=7

Traxxas 3mm locknuts (can be substituted with any other 3mm locknut by any manufacturer if you wish to buy purple or blue ones): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJ47&P=7


Rear shocks:
You can either use Long or X-long Big Bores, depending on how high you with your rear end to ride. I use X-longs in the rear, and they work great, but if you would rather prefer a more level ride, the long Big Bores work better. You may also substitute any other brand of oil shock for the Big Bores, such as a set of Duratrax threaded aluminum shocks. For spings on the rear, I use a set of 3.5" Losi pinks. They are extremely soft and flexible, promoting excellent articulation.

X-long: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJG89&P=7

Long: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJG88&P=7

Note: You will need to purchase springs for the rear shocks

If you wish to upgrade the front shocks as well, the standard length Big bores will work.

Front Big Bores: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLR95&P=7


Shock oil: Unless you plan on jumping, relatively light shock oil will work best for the Pajero. For this application, we will use Trinity 25 Wt. silicone shock oil.

25 Wt. Shock Oil: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKB48&P=7

Springs: The springs used for the rear shocks will depend on what length rear shocks you got.

If you purchased the long Big Bores, use these springs: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCXS8&P=7

If you purchased the X-long Big Bores, use these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMV3&P=7

_________________________________________

After you have collected and bought the parts that you need to complete the conversion, you will need to remove all of the stock rear suspension components. This includes the lower links, the upper links, the shocks, the ball studs that the stock shocks once mounted upon in the fenderwell, and the ball studs the upper links mounted to the chassis with.

Things you will need to keep after removing all of the parts: The long screws that the lower links attach to the rear axle with, and the screws the lower links attached to the chassis with.

_________________________________________

Now, we begin assembling the 4-link. Remove all the new parts from their packages, and organize them according to what purpose they serve. We will begin with the shocks first.

Remove the shock mount by unscrewing the screw that attaches the shock mount to the inner fender. Unscrew the ball stud that is in the shock mount. Now, take a look at the plastic parts tree that came with your Big Bores. There should be a small black plastic piece that looks like 2 different pieces of plastic tubing put together to create a shouldered insert. Snap this off of the parts tree, and insert it into the top of your shocks.

Continue to fill the shocks with the shock oil, and when reattaching the caps, make sure you don't torque the caps down too hard. You don't want to pinch the bladders, as this will make the shocks leak. After filling the shocks, install the springs onto the shocks. Now that the shocks are filled with oil and have springs installed onto them, you may set these aside, along with 2 3x12mm washerhead screws to attach the top of the screws to the shock mount, until later.

Now, we move on to the links. Begin by taking the rod ends, and inserting the metal balls into the rod end holes. Now, take your stock lower links, and your new lower links, and begin screwing the rod ends onto the lower links. Make sure you slide a collar followed by a shock, and then followed by a collar onto one side of the turnbuckle before screwing on the rod ends. When the length of the new links is equal to the length of the old links (measure the distance form the center of the hole in the balls to the opposite end), stop. Now, assemble your 2nd link the same way, comparing the length to your new lower link as you thread the rod ends on.

Ok, now that your lower links are together, they are ready to be installed. First, take the screws that originally attached the lower links to the chassis, and attach the new lower links to the chassis with them. Then, take the long screws that originally attached the stock links to the rear axle, and push them through the ball in the rod ends. Now, take the screw, with the rod ends still on the screw, and insert the screw into the original hole that the stock links were screwed into. To secure the screw, take a 3mm locknut and tighten it down over the extruding threads of the screw. Repeat for the other side. Now, providing that you followed directions, your shocks should be connected to your lower links already. If they aren't, unsecure the links from the axle, twist the rod end off, and slide a collar over the turnbuckle, then the bottom of the shock, and then another collar. Slide the collars all the way up to the hex in the turnbuckle, and use the included allen key to tighten the collars down. Now, screw the rod ends back on, and reattach the lower links to the axle. When looking up from the bottom, your lower links should look like this:



With the shocks connected to the lower links now, they are ready to be connected to the truck itself. Select one of the shocks, a 3x12mm washerhead screw and a shock mount. With the plastic insert in the shock cap facing so that it acts as a spacer between the shock mount and the shock cap, insert a 3x12mm washerhead screw into the spacer. Screw the screw into the shock mount, and attach the shock mount back to the inner fenderwell with the original self-tapping screw.

The side view of your nearly-assembled suspension should look something like this (don't mind how the top links are mounted to the axle, just look at the lower links and the shocks):



Now that the lower links and shocks are installed, we must prep the rear axle for the installation of the top links.

Looking at the rear (the side without the output shaft) of the axle, you will notice there are 2 screws holding the axle casing together at the rear-most side of the pumpkin. One of these screws is located at the middle of the axle. Unscrew this screw, and in it's place, screw a 3x20mm roundhead (not a washerhead) screw into the hole. As the screw begins to come even with the top of the hole, take a rod end, and position it so that the screw threads into the rod end as it screws into and through the axle casing. This rod end should already have a metal ball inserted into the hole. If not, put one in now.

When the screw head hits the axle casing and ceases to continue threading through the plastic, make sure that the rod end on the other end of the screw is twisted all the way down. If it isn't, twist it down on the screw until the rod end bottoms out on the axle casing. Now that the rod end is attached to the rear axle, make sure that it is perpendicular to the axle tube. It should look like this on the axle:



Now, it is time to put together the top links. Take the 2.06" turnbuckles and screw rod ends (make sure the balls are inserted into the rod ends) onto the ends. When you have verified that these are of an equal length, take a 3x23mm washerhead screw, and insert it into the ball on one end of a link. Now, with the link still on the screw, slide the screw through the ball in the rod end on the rear axle. After that, slide the 2nd link over the screw, and secure with a 3mm locknut. The final setup for the attachment of the top links to the axle should look like this:



Now, take the unsecured ends of the top links, and using 2 3x12mm washerhead screws, attach these to the same locations that the stock upper links were attached to.

Before:


After:


Now, your 4-link should be complete. Feel free to ask questions and make suggestions. :)

-Zack
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Old 06-16-2004, 01:27 PM
bbyrd22 bbyrd22 is offline
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Cool, I see it now. I just needed it to be cleared up. I see you have the links stacked on top of each other. Thanks.
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Old 06-16-2004, 04:37 PM
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Yeah, it was the easiest way to do it! I thought about using a ball end so that I would mount them side by side, but I didn't like the idea of how much play that gave!
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Old 06-16-2004, 04:39 PM
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Nice How to Zillon!
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Old 07-20-2004, 11:24 PM
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Damn, who merged the 2 threads? :blink:
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Old 07-21-2004, 08:16 AM
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That would be me! Seeing as how they both tackled the same issue.
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Old 01-20-2005, 08:56 AM
Mogcar Mogcar is offline
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Hi guys,
What is the best way to raise the front suspension on the xc chassis? I've got the tamiya front uni-driveshafts & aluminium hubs, any other mods needed on the XC chassis??
I'd need some fairly tough springs & shocks though due to the weight of the Unimog body over the front axles.

Cheers
Justin
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Old 01-20-2005, 09:13 AM
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Jugg2Driver Jugg2Driver is offline
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Basically your gonna have to cut and grind away at the A-arms and front skid to get any more travel out of them. Kieth and Spoon have posted a few times about how they did theirs. Not sure where tho.


Matt
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:48 AM
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Mine was posted into one of the threads about the last outings with the stock body. I may have removed those pictures in the effort to save rook in the uploads folder though. If I can't find them, I'll try to do a little how-to sorta thing.
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Old 07-06-2005, 12:16 PM
DCLXVI DCLXVI is offline
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I had some problem with the center mount on the axle twisting so I did like this:

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Old 12-18-2008, 02:20 PM
eortizr eortizr is offline
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This tread is useless without the pics..
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