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  #16  
Old 12-08-2006, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cautrell05 View Post
Just out or curiousity, what do the hgh lift springs measure anyway as far as length and arch.
Thanks
Nick
same as jugg springs... slightly less arc
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  #17  
Old 12-24-2006, 12:02 PM
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on my lift i think im going to use the main leaf with the longest under that and the next longest under that - 3 leafs and the anti wrap bar. like my dads suzuki sj413 samurai
im new to this site BTW
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  #18  
Old 12-24-2006, 12:11 PM
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Your in for a rough ride with that set up! It shud flex about as much as a F1 race car.

I had the main leaf and the shortest on top of that and it still wasnt that flexy. Plus it knackerd the leafs, so now i 4 linked it.

Last edited by defender experience : 12-24-2006 at 04:40 PM.
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  #19  
Old 12-24-2006, 12:24 PM
TLTcrawler06 TLTcrawler06 is offline
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Originally Posted by defender experience View Post
Your in for a rough ride with that set up! It shud flex about as much as a F1 race car.

I had the main leaf and the shortest underneath and it still wasnt that flexy. Plus it knackerd the leafs, so now i 4 linked it.
Just FYI it's not a crawler.
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  #20  
Old 12-24-2006, 04:13 PM
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true
mines going to be a scale truck
and then ill get another one and 4 link it front and rear

BTW none of my lifts will have locked diffs - my cc-01 doesn't have any, so why should a lift?
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  #21  
Old 12-24-2006, 04:37 PM
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Just FYI it's not a crawler. Who mentioned crawler?

Do you have a highlift? If you do then you should know how stiff the leaf setup is.

If you want a scale amount of flex then the standard setting without the spring in the shock is about right.

Just "MY" opinion but that setup will just be way too stiff.

Open diffs, thats down to personal preference. I dont like the front axle locked but on the highlift i think its a must, even with a soft setup.
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  #22  
Old 12-24-2006, 04:40 PM
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as long as it has about 2-2 1/2" of artic im not fussed - thats how much my xc has
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  #23  
Old 12-24-2006, 04:55 PM
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Mine on the standard setting without spring in shock would flex 50mm. This is fully loaded and pushed down with the hand. On the trail it would flex about 30mm.

With the main leaf and the smallest on top it would flex about 40mm naturally.

Now i have the front in the normal settings without spring and the rear 4 linked on TLT shocks, im getting 65mm natural travel, max travel is 80mm when pushed down.
The front does a little flexing, but i found the front wheels rubbing the front bumper so i used the rear to achieve more.

So... 65mm in 1:1 is 650mm. 2 ft. Thats about scale.

Aaron, we shall have a trail off after the x-mas holidays sometime?
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  #24  
Old 12-24-2006, 05:44 PM
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that sounds like fun
ill bring my cc-01 and TL-01 G4 disco3 too?
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  #25  
Old 12-27-2006, 11:59 AM
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Has anybody given thought to putting shackles on both ends of the leaf springs and then using 4-links to keep them located? It would stop the problem of axle wrap, probably keep the leaves from going S-shaped like defender experience noticed (from the traction bar), and maybe even give better flex and more travel. You probably wouldn't even need to triangulate the 4-links, since the leaf springs would still keep it all centered.
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  #26  
Old 12-27-2006, 12:16 PM
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It would probably work but there would be so much going on with all the link mounts and leaf mounts. If your going to 4-link it, then you might as well do away with the leafs.
To stop axel wrap just add two traction bars instead of one, an upper and a lower. However, my traction bar was on the left side of the axle and it was the right leaf spring which was really bent. I noticed my truck was "crabbing" sideways because of the bends in the leaf made it shorter.
So adding a traction bar to the left and right side would be even better.
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  #27  
Old 12-27-2006, 04:07 PM
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Yes, that is true, but if you wanted to keep the leaf springs, for whatever reason, 4-link bars would technically be the better way to go. There is a series of articles by Marty Garza on Truckworld.com about monster truck suspensions, chassis, axles, etc (Though the link is down right now, it worked as of yesterday), and it talks about how when one side of the leaf spring is 'fixed', the axle moves in an arc and changes the wheelbase. This can/will also stress the springs if you use fixed length traction bars, because they would have to lengthen and shorted throughout the length of travel. If you shackle both ends of the leaf spring, if lets the spring compress and keep the wheel (relatively) centered with the appropriate linkage.

Maybe not a huge deal on such a small scale, but it could be a factor.
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  #28  
Old 12-27-2006, 04:19 PM
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I just want to second those who use the standard setup without springs. I use that myself and also a tie wrap per wheel in order to prevent the axel wrap leaf from getting stuck in the steering or get that "taco shape" people talk about.
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  #29  
Old 12-27-2006, 10:17 PM
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Default Juggernaut leaf spring set up

Remember that the stock Juggernaut had front and rear shackles on its leaf springs to help keep the wheels centered. I would think that it really allows more flexibility in the suspension to allow for severe landings whether they be front impacts, say when they run over the cars, or for rear wheel landings after jumping over a stack of cars!
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  #30  
Old 12-27-2006, 11:04 PM
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Right, it would let the suspension be more supple because it would basically do what it wants, and not fight that one fixed shackle.

I may try this first, just to see if it works. Anybody got some spare shackles I can have? LOL
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