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Big Rigs, Multi axle, & Tracked Vehicles The place for "Semi" talk!
Tamiya and Wedico Tractor trailers!
Tamiya and other brand R/C Tanks and Tracked vehicles. And any vehicle with more than 2 axles; 6x6, 8x8, 10x10, etc!


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  #1  
Old 12-30-2016, 05:43 PM
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Wombii Wombii is offline
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Default Let's build a firetruck!

Update 2019: Info about the project:

Project:
Scania Rosenbauer airport fire truck, As delivered by Egenes AS to the Royal Norwegian Air Force in 2009. Very similar trucks have since been delivered to the Norwegian civilian airport operator Avinor. The RNoAF trucks are based on a Scania P470 in 4x4 and 6x6 versions with a combination of winch and water cannon or a F-16 rescue platform mounted on the front. The Avinor trucks are slightly newer, and seems to be based on a P550. The Avinor versions are equipped both as crew cab and single cab in 4x4 and 6x6. The most notable difference on the outside is that the Avinor versions have a smooth side panel on the water tank module and orange stripes instead of a red, white and blue stripe on the RNoAF version.

Specs of the Avinor 6x6 crew cab version:
SCANIA P550 CB6X6HHZ
Length: 1055 cm
Width: 255 cm
Weight: 16 metric tons, with max allowable weight 30 metric tons.
Tire dimensions: 395/85R20

Specifics of my inspiration, RNoAF 6x6 delivered to Rygge air force base in 2010:
http://www.egenes.as/news.asp?id=9714&c=167&t=425
SCANIA P470CB 6x6
10200 liter water tank
600 liter foam tank
RM60C mounted on the roof, 4000 liters per minute.
RM8E mounted on the front bumper, 1000 liters per minute.

Specs of my model:
To be determined
Roughly 73 cm long.
186mm wide at rear wheels.

References and links:
Google site search of Egenes.as, because they've only indexed newer trucks in their table of contents:
https://www.google.no/search?q=site:...w=1334&bih=790

Egenes AS website, a true treasure trove of info and pictures of fire trucks delivered by Egenes:
http://www.egenes.as/

Rosenbauer Buffalo Airport fire trucks, including data sheets for sample vehicles:
https://www.rosenbauer.com/en/svc/ro...hicles/buffalo

Brochure and specs for Rosenbauer RM60C water cannon (PDF):
https://www.veljeksetkulmala.fi/uplo...i.original.pdf

Norwegian vehicle database with basic specs for all registered vehicles:
https://www.vegvesen.no/Kjoretoy/Kjo...°yopplysninger

Some nice builds with detailed photos. The Scania and Man TGX builds have been very helpful:
http://robse.dk/

Flickr albums with reference shots of the roof of a crew cab:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/111333...7681852507242/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/111emergency/29612523816/

Notes:
The CP31 crew cab is longer than the CP28, and has room for an extra window in the middle.
The rear door of the crew cabs is slightly higher than the front doors. (about 3mm on CP28 in 1/14 scale).
The Tamiya Scania body is not perfect, especially with the height of the door handles and door groove. If you base your cut on those reference points, you will run into trouble.
The part number for the main body is 9335474.
The color of European ambulances and yellow emergency vehicles is RAL 1016 Sulphur yellow. It's not available from Tamiya. It's weird and looks deep yellow, unsaturated yellow or almost lime green depending on the light.

The water tank level lights on the trucks delivered after 2009 are only lit when the pump is powered. They're lit when the ignition is on in the earlier Avinor trucks.
The round rear lights are rear lights and brake lights combined in the LED ring, and turn signal in the middle.
The work lights on the top of the rear module is also used as reverse lights.
In Norway parking lights and side markers are always on. Driving lights have to be on when moving during the day. Low beam has to be on at night and auxiliary high beams may only be on if the normal high beams are on. Driving lights may or may not be on when low beams are on.

Useful English/American synonyms: Parking lights - sidelights. Rear lights - taillights. Turn signals - indicators. Brake lights - stop lights. Full beam - high beam - main beam. Dipped beam - low beam.

Constructive criticism is very welcome

_________________________________
---- ** Original opening post below ** --

I don't know what I'm doing, but I've been dreaming of doing a build like this for years, so I guess it's about time to start! I've got a Scania R620 kit, a handful of styrene plates, and quite a few hours of styrene building vids in my youtube history, so how bad can this possibly go?

The inspiration is a Norwegian Scania airport crash tender. These come in 4x4 and 6x6 variations. Stage 1 will not include a 6x6 conversion, and will probably be a bit shorter than the original. I'm also not sure what I'll do with the wheels, so I'm planning on building it in a modular way that will let me change and upgrade as I progress. Worst case, I'll hopefully end up with a decent looking hybrid between a "civilian" and airport truck.

Here is my rough draft of a plan for this: http://imgur.com/KNOr1o3

I'll need to convert the R cab into a P cab, then convert it to a CP28 crew cab. I'll try to scratchbuild the rear doors for the crew cab instead of buying another cab and merging them.

For reference, this is a 4x4 version stationed at Kjeller airport/airbase (with what I believe is an F-16 pilot rescue platform on the front?):


And a quick sketch of my goal:



Started out by applying some masking tape, drawing on it to copy the features of the front door over to 1mm styrene plates.


Getting the angles on the carved out line of the doors right turned out to be surprisingly hard. Ended up taping the 2 panels together, then bending them backwards and grinding the midsection down with Tamiya's flat plastic file.


This seems promising:


Putting the doors aside for a while, the corner things needs to be cut down in multiple axis to fit a P cab. This is the crucial test to see if I'll be able to do this build.


Decided to cut it at the bottom of the "valley", cut it again to remove the middle part, and glue the top and bottom together, instead of trying to reshape a new curve.


That leaves some shaping to do on the bottom part, and I'll have to do some filling and sanding later.


Glued in some styrene strips on the back because I'll be cutting away the support for the mounting tab.


As you can see, without the strips, the mounting tab would be cut completely off.


I accidentally made it correctly on the first try?




Next up: Try to do the same on the other side.
Any constructive criticism welcome.

Last edited by Wombii : 08-14-2019 at 09:52 PM. Reason: updated with info and notes
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  #2  
Old 12-31-2016, 02:25 PM
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No criticism here. You're off to a great start.
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  #3  
Old 12-31-2016, 03:03 PM
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Thank you!

Needs some glue, filling and sanding, but cutting on the front parts is done. Trying to work out exactly where to cut the body now.


Note to perfectionists: This isn't perfect. The real life corner "nostrils" on the P cab is a couple of inches shorter than the G / R cab. Those parts are curved in too many dimensions to make it an easy job, but you'll need to shorten it by 3-4mm to match full-scale. I think there are worse inaccuracies around the doors on the side of the body for me to justify spending days on this, but if you want to do it more accurately, here is my research-sketch of the difference:


On a small side note here, I just noticed I failed to consider a curve that may or may not ruin my plan and force me to fix the corners anyway. Yay!
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:14 PM
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Off to a great start. This will look pretty sweet.
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Old 01-02-2017, 04:49 PM
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I had to build some of the chassis to figure out how to trim down front of the cab. Before:


After: (I'm not sure what to do with the bumper. It's supposed to be a bit slimmer for the offroad version, but I'm not sure I'll be able to make it look good)


I used the bracket as a template for where to drill the new holes. The upper hole for mounting the corner nostril is now its lower hole.


The space between the upper and lower part is a bit larger than I wanted (it's still R cab spacing). The stock mounting system won't let me fix that. I may have to ditch it and cook up something using magnets instead. I may have to do that anyway if I want an interior. the good thing about the much too large space is that the curve along the side of the grills doesn't look so bad. I'll make sure to do the corner piece trimming slightly different next time.


I'm really not looking forward to cutting this body in half right now.
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Old 01-10-2017, 06:58 PM
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Replacing the screws for the bumper with a neodymium magnet mounted on 2mm styrene. Seems strong enough. This lets me mount the bumper higher. I'll go into more detail on the bumper later.


Much better.


This hurt...


Have been thinking about how to get the shape behind upper rear door to thin smoothly for a few days. Body is 2mm thick and curving, but the door is nearly straight. The edge should be less than 1mm at the top.


Made a cut partway down a 1mm styrene plate, tracing the cutout in the body panel, then bent it slightly outwards. The 1mm plate will be the base for the door. Now I can just glue the plate behind the body.


The easiest way to finish the forward part of the rear door groove will probably be to cut out part of the body and move it down, then filling gaps and the midsection of the groove.




I don't seem to have any adequate tools or techniques for rounding off or beveling long edges. Does anyone have any tips?
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:58 PM
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Turns out this isn't actually easy. Who would have thought?


If I ever do this again, I think I'd buy a second body and steal the doors from it. For the record, the part number for the main body is 9335474.
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Old 01-18-2017, 09:21 PM
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Have spent some time trying to figure out how the Tamiya basic putty works. Pretty nasty stuff and not easy to work with, but sands really smooth and sticks great to the styrene. Tried two different ways of doing the small panels between the doors. The method for the left one is definitely the way to go for next time.
l

Last edited by Wombii : 03-29-2017 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 04-30-2017, 09:18 PM
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I want to make sure the roof of the crew cab looks as correct as I can reasonably get it. It's very visible on an RC truck. That means all four edges needs to be round, and the whole thing should be at an angle of a few degrees towards the front.
It's surprisingly difficult to find good reference photos of the flat Scania roof, and even worse for the crew cab. These photos by 111emergency on flickr were extremely helpful:
Flickr link


As I'm making most of the roof from 0.5mm and 1mm plates, the roof won't be very strong on its own. It needs a sturdy base, so I'm adding more styrene to the cab to improve structural integrity. Feels solid now.
Large 1mm plate for the roof. Scored lines for what will become the rear curve, bent it into shape (while accidentally breaking it in several places along the way) and glued in some thin strips both inside and outside to make sure it keeps its shape.



The base for the roof:
5mm x 1.5mm strips on both sides of the cab, with another strip angled on top.
0.5mm sheet cut into long wide strips, layered together to form an appropriately angled base on top of the cab.



0.5mm sheet rolled up overnight to get a nice curve, then cut into smaller pieces and glued to the base on both sides. Yes, it looks horrible, but most of it will be covered up later, or sanded down.
I want the roof to be waterproof, so I'm filling all the gaps on the inside with putty too (bottom right). Vallejo plastic putty is super easy to use and non-toxic, but it's still a bit soft when dry so I don't think I'll be using it on any visible large gaps. Works great for this purpose though.



Rear corners from sheet and strips glued to a solid part, then cut and filed to the right shape. The Tamiya body is too squared off to get the curves to line up properly, so some compromises needs to be made. Shape the piece to follow the curves when looking from the side, the back and the top, and they should ideally end up as a big ball in the corner.


Next update will probably be the front edge of the roof, when I've figured out how many wires I need to hide there for lights in the sun visor.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:16 PM
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I need the sun visor to be removable for easy access to LEDs. Extended the mounting pegs with 5x1.5mm strip and cut some holes in the cab. Not sure how, but it actually just clicks into place now and seems to hold up quite good. Cut some large holes for wiring, and glued in some scrap styrene in place of the window mounting nuts. Can't reach those nuts when the roof is glued, and I'm not convinced glue will hold onto those m2 nuts permanently, so hopefully plastic will do the job.
Corner pieces made from laminated 1 and 1.5mm, and shaped with a file.




Got my hands on some white Tamiya basic putty and started filling and sanding.




Still some imperfections, but time to start adding details to the roof.

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Old 05-09-2017, 08:00 PM
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Cut brass tube to raise the platform that the wheel wells are mounted to (because the front bumper is raised). Temporary solution until I out how to mount the wheel wells and sides without it, to make room for interior.



Seeing it like this feels good! Those big "nostrils" still annoy me though. Looks like I'll have to extend the frame rails by about 8-10 cm.

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Old 05-11-2017, 06:16 AM
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Thats some killer work Wombii!!
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5 ton of fun
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Old 05-12-2017, 07:15 AM
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That cab is really coming along great!

I hope it stays Airport fire truck, but either way will be very cool.
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Old 05-12-2017, 11:23 AM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Holey crap dude! This is awesome...that is some amazing fab work! Following along here!
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Old 05-12-2017, 11:19 PM
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Thanks for the kind words!

Finally found someone with 53x20cm styrene sheets in stock. Suddenly realised how large this thing is actually going to be.




Have spent some time measuring photos to estimate some measurements. This very basic sketch shows my estimates. I'll move the rear wheels a nice round 10cm. Chassis extension is still probably weeks away, but I want to make sure the rear sections will still fit when I go ahead with that. The plan is to make the water tank section, front locker and rear pump sections separately like Rosenbauer does, which will save me a lot of time if I have to change things in the future.
Rosenbauer's Buffalo ARFF page

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